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#1
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
I turn to you, folks, rather than to Radio Shack or Hi Fi Buys or
others of their ilk because I trust your advice -- not to mention the fact that my questions are so stupid that when you laugh, I won't hear it. I want to know what kind of speaker wires I should use to connect my combination, all-in-one Sanyo AWM-3000U Mini Shelf System (three-CD changer, dual cassette deck, AM/FM tuner, 100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.) to different speakers, i.e., ESS Performance Series PS10 speakers? A friend gave me these speakers and they're large and quite heavy compared with the original Sanyo speakers. I assume (I hate using that word) that the larger speakers will sound better than the small Sanyo speakers. You probably need more information about the ESS Performance Series speakers, but other than two serial numbers (one/speaker), that's all that I know. Presently, the original Sanyo speakers are connected with 22-gauge stranded wire. If I stick with them, I'll still have to splice new wire onto them (or open up the back of the cheap speakers and put in new 22-gauge wire.) I have some 24-gauge standard polarity speaker wire and some 18-gauge solid "Hook-Up Wire," Type AWM, Rated 300 volts. Should I use either of these, or should I go to Radio Shack and buy something else? Again, forgive my stupid questions, folks. |
#2
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
"Munchausen" wrote ... I turn to you, folks, rather than to Radio Shack or Hi Fi Buys or others of their ilk because I trust your advice -- not to mention the fact that my questions are so stupid that when you laugh, I won't hear it. I want to know what kind of speaker wires I should use to connect my combination, all-in-one Sanyo AWM-3000U Mini Shelf System (three-CD changer, dual cassette deck, AM/FM tuner, 100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.) to different speakers, i.e., ESS Performance Series PS10 speakers? A friend gave me these speakers and they're large and quite heavy compared with the original Sanyo speakers. I assume (I hate using that word) that the larger speakers will sound better than the small Sanyo speakers. I just use zip cord from the hardware store, 14 or 12 guage usually. Of course, whether your Sanyo receiver will drive the ESS speakers properly is a completely different question. |
#3
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
Munchausen wrote: ...100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.
It's interesting to note that such specs have made a big comeback. There's an FTC ruling that amplifier power claims must be in the form "so-and-so-many watts across such-and-such a frequency range at or below such-and-such a level of distortion." This rule was created long ago as an attempt to prevent the ludicrous claims then prevalent, but they've come right back. The rule's still in force, but you wouldn't know it. If you're worrying about refinements such as speaker-wire gauge, why are you wasting your money on such equipment? Get some 16-gauge zip cord at the hardware. James Boyk |
#4
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
Munchausen wrote: I want to know what kind of speaker wires I should use to connect my combination, all-in-one Sanyo AWM-3000U Mini Shelf System (three-CD changer, dual cassette deck, AM/FM tuner, 100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.) to different speakers, i.e., ESS Performance Series PS10 speakers? A friend gave me these speakers and Don't know the specifics, but ESS does make some fine speakers. However, some of them may be quite power hungry. At best, your mini system probably would have the power to play those speakers at very low volume. I wouldn't worry so much about the speaker wire, you need a more powerful amplifier. -Rob |
#5
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
You probably need more information about the ESS
Performance Series speakers, but other than two serial numbers (one/speaker), that's all that I know. ESS stands for Electrostatic Sound Systems. Thirty-plus years ago they made some nice speakers. Most of them had electrostatic drivers and needed good amps to drive them. "Performance Series" sounds like a product of God-knows-what quality from some obscure holding company that bought the rights to the ESS trademark. Your question isn't stupid or idiotic, but pointless and ill-informed. If you're serious about listening to music, both the Sanyo mini system and the ESS speakers should be tossed in the trash. Find some non-loony audiophile and let him help you pick out some decent equipment. You can put together a nice-sounding system for under $1000. |
#6
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
William Sommerwerck wrote: ESS stands for Electrostatic Sound Systems. Thirty-plus years ago they made some nice speakers. Most of them had electrostatic drivers and needed good amps to drive them. Didn't they also have the Heil drivers and the cone shaped dealy? "Performance Series" sounds like a product of God-knows-what quality from some obscure holding company that bought the rights to the ESS trademark. Your question isn't stupid or idiotic, but pointless and ill-informed. If you're serious about listening to music, both the Sanyo mini system and the ESS speakers should be tossed in the trash. How can you say the speakers should be trashed without knowing anything about them? Could possibly be real gems. |
#7
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
I want to know what kind of speaker wires I should use to connect my combination, all-in-one Sanyo AWM-3000U Mini Shelf System (three-CD changer, dual cassette deck, AM/FM tuner, 100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.) to different speakers, i.e., ESS Performance Series PS10 speakers? to attach speakers to an amp first make the following decisions: 1: type of wire . copper or non copper. aluminum may cost less but copper has less resistance. pick copper 2: pick two conductor wire 3: pick stranded wire (solid hookup wire is for fixed instillations where the wire never moves afterward.) 4: pick a pair with the insulator marked with a stipe or ridge (to identify polarity) 5: pick a gage of wire of appropriate size. the wire should fit in whatever connectors you have to work with. unusully long runs of speaker cable will require larger gage sizes. (but for a home system we probably are not looking at 50+ ft runs) 6: determine what astetics are needed. if a person you live with objects to a black or brown wire but not the clear stuff then that will be the way to go. 7: if the wires must be located in on a place where they might get pinched such as behind a sofa look for a double insulated type. a little extra spent here might prevent a fire. this type usually has one black and one white inner insulator with a gray outer cover (your colors may vary) |
#8
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
The greater the cross-sectional diameter of the wire, the better the cable
will work. Voltage rating on a cable means absolutely nothing in this application, and probably has more to do with the quality of the insulation. How much current a cable can handle is a better gauge. Basically you want cable that is a minimum of 1 mm square, preferable 1.5 mm square or better. You need the cable to have a marking (stripe) on one conductor so you can get your speakers in phase. The thinner a cable, the greater the resistance, and the greater the power loss when the speakers draw the most current = loss of low end and poor electrical damping. A modern amp's low output impedance actually forms part of the damping of the speaker. So, in a nutshell, get stranded, polarised cable with the best conductor diameter you can get that will fit the connector posts of the amp and speakers. Bill. "Munchausen" wrote in message om... I turn to you, folks, rather than to Radio Shack or Hi Fi Buys or others of their ilk because I trust your advice -- not to mention the fact that my questions are so stupid that when you laugh, I won't hear it. I want to know what kind of speaker wires I should use to connect my combination, all-in-one Sanyo AWM-3000U Mini Shelf System (three-CD changer, dual cassette deck, AM/FM tuner, 100W x 2, Into 6 ohms, 1 KHz with no more than 10% T.H.D.) to different speakers, i.e., ESS Performance Series PS10 speakers? A friend gave me these speakers and they're large and quite heavy compared with the original Sanyo speakers. I assume (I hate using that word) that the larger speakers will sound better than the small Sanyo speakers. You probably need more information about the ESS Performance Series speakers, but other than two serial numbers (one/speaker), that's all that I know. Presently, the original Sanyo speakers are connected with 22-gauge stranded wire. If I stick with them, I'll still have to splice new wire onto them (or open up the back of the cheap speakers and put in new 22-gauge wire.) I have some 24-gauge standard polarity speaker wire and some 18-gauge solid "Hook-Up Wire," Type AWM, Rated 300 volts. Should I use either of these, or should I go to Radio Shack and buy something else? Again, forgive my stupid questions, folks. |
#9
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
Rob Adelman wrote:
William Sommerwerck replied in typical arrogant r.a.p manner: Your question isn't stupid or idiotic, but pointless and ill-informed. If you're serious about listening to music, both the Sanyo mini system and the ESS speakers should be tossed in the trash. How can you say the speakers should be trashed without knowing anything about them? Could possibly be real gems. Because he's a jerk. The wire information you seek is that for speakers you want the lowest resistance affordable wire you can find. You'd also like it to have some other nice properties as well. Copper water pipe has nice low resistance, but doesn't flex so hot! The standard thing for speakers is plain old everyday AC cord. Lamp cord is OK. A nice discount heavy extension cord (cut the ends off) can give you even a heavier gauge for cheap. The question you didn't ask was what about the 22 ga wire already there you need to splice into? Well, it's better to go back inside and not have the short piece of low gauge wire, but in a practical case wire resistance is a product of resistance times length. So the bottom line is that if you keep that piece of spliced 22 ga wire short, it will make little difference. The difference all comes from the long runs where you are mulitplying by lots of feet. Good Luck. Ignore the clowns here who tell you to buy "real" speakers. You'll note they aren't offering up THEIR money to get you "real" gear. Benj -- SPAM-Guard! Remove .users (if present) to email me! |
#10
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
I've found some 12-ga stuff in the big hardware box stores that looks like
Monster cable but isn't called Monster, thus reducing the price from $15/ft to about $0.50/ft. The point is it's a huge wire and it's cheap. It's very flexible, it has clear insulation so you can see the copper (ie, looks good), one conductor is marked for polarity, and it's very fine wire with lots of strands. wrote: The wire information you seek is that for speakers you want the lowest resistance affordable wire you can find. You'd also like it to have some other nice properties as well. Copper water pipe has nice low resistance, but doesn't flex so hot! The standard thing for speakers is plain old everyday AC cord. Lamp cord is OK. A nice discount heavy extension cord (cut the ends off) can give you even a heavier gauge for cheap. |
#12
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Idiot seeks speaker wire gauge advice
"Rob Adelman" wrote in message ... wrote: Good Luck. Ignore the clowns here who tell you to buy "real" speakers. You'll note they aren't offering up THEIR money to get you "real" gear. Well, I would suggest getting a "real" amp. In fact I did Seems like good advice that only gets better the more closely one looks at the problem. Just for grins I tried looking up Sanyo AWM-3000U on Google. Believe it or not, I got not one decent hit! A service manual was listed and nothing else. True mystery meat. As close as I came was the Sanyo AWM 2800: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...cat=97149&type =19&dept=4044&path=0%3A4044%3A96684%3A97149 Yup, a $79.96 cheapo-cheap boombox from Walmart. Now it might sound great and have clean electronics, but if it actually did come up to audio production standards even in a tight pinch, I'd be more than a little amazed. There are quite a few $50 computer speakers that sound better than most products in this category! I think it's time to rethink the application, as is sometimes said in more polite circles at times like these. I'm 100% with Adelman on this one! If one were to hook good speakers to a electronics package like this, it seems like the included 24 gauge speaker wire wouldn't hurt the sound quality nearly as much as other parts of the *system*. If you wanted to put the speakers a looooong ways away (not a bad idea for aesthetic reasons), then heavier gauge wire might be in order. ;-) |
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