Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts
out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how it
is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can probably help you better that way. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03... I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the quality
of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable. Now I replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode". Thanks. "MOSFET" wrote in message ... Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can probably help you better that way. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03... I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
How much the subs can handle will not have any effect on your amp. However,
how they are wired most certainly will. When you say both your subs are wired in parallel for "2 ohms each", you mean they are wired in parallel so your amp sees a 2 ohm load (your 4 ohm subs are ALWAYS 4 ohms). I checked and that amp IS NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. This very well is your problem. You do not give the Audiobahn model number. What is it? If it is an 8 ohm sub OR dual-voice coils, there may be a way to wire them so you get a 4 ohm load. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:_ZrOf.16084$kp3.3476@fed1read03... Oh by the way, the subs are audiobhan 1100 RMS each. They are huge. Maybe my amp can't handle them. with 800RMS each, which I think its overated. Thanks agian. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:5YrOf.16083$kp3.3425@fed1read03... both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the quality of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable. Now I replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode". Thanks. "MOSFET" wrote in message ... Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can probably help you better that way. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03... I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on
each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so. Another question. I I wire my subs in parallel to get a 1 ohm load, is that mono? What is 1 ohm stereo and what would be the best amp to get to get the most power out of that amp (the most thump for my buck) Thanks for your help. "MOSFET" wrote in message ... How much the subs can handle will not have any effect on your amp. However, how they are wired most certainly will. When you say both your subs are wired in parallel for "2 ohms each", you mean they are wired in parallel so your amp sees a 2 ohm load (your 4 ohm subs are ALWAYS 4 ohms). I checked and that amp IS NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. This very well is your problem. You do not give the Audiobahn model number. What is it? If it is an 8 ohm sub OR dual-voice coils, there may be a way to wire them so you get a 4 ohm load. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:_ZrOf.16084$kp3.3476@fed1read03... Oh by the way, the subs are audiobhan 1100 RMS each. They are huge. Maybe my amp can't handle them. with 800RMS each, which I think its overated. Thanks agian. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:5YrOf.16083$kp3.3425@fed1read03... both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the quality of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable. Now I replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode". Thanks. "MOSFET" wrote in message ... Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can probably help you better that way. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03... I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on
each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so. Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per channel and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that. It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up. Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps = watts). This current draw might start blowing fuses. MOSFET |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
I have a 3 and 1 farad connected together. I doubt this is the problem. Im
thinking is the AMP. ANy sugestios on what kind of amp I can connect these to. A two channel 1 ohm stable? And wire them in parallel to create 1 ohm? Thanks. "MOSFET" wrote in message news They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so. Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per channel and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that. It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up. Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps = watts). This current draw might start blowing fuses. MOSFET |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
The capacitors shouldn't make any difference. You're amp SHOULD be able to
do this. I would check the voltage with a multimeter. It is possible that your amp is simply drawing to much current because your electrical system cannot keep up (unfortunately, capacitors cannot solve this problem). It may not be your amp's fault AND you might have this problem with ANY high-power amp you get. To be sure, you need to test your electrical system while cranking your system. If voltage drops below 11 volts, you will either have to upgrade (or fix) your electrical system or just keep the volume lower. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:cguOf.16746$kp3.16572@fed1read03... I have a 3 and 1 farad connected together. I doubt this is the problem. Im thinking is the AMP. ANy sugestios on what kind of amp I can connect these to. A two channel 1 ohm stable? And wire them in parallel to create 1 ohm? Thanks. "MOSFET" wrote in message news They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so. Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per channel and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that. It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up. Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps = watts). This current draw might start blowing fuses. MOSFET |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03... I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks. |
#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out of
protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03... Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder something.
You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that at idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode? I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode then? Maybe someone else can speculate on this. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03... Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03... Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Most car audio crap can handle up to 16 volts. 13.5-15 volts is normal for
alternator output. His amp started going in to protection after cranking it up for 10 minutes. If I had to bet I would say a burnt voice coil popped the amps outputs. I have seen amps that were fried that had a delay going in to protection mode a few times, so that does not stick me as good news. In article , "MOSFET" wrote: You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder something. You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that at idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode? I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode then? Maybe someone else can speculate on this. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03... Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03... Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without
burning another amp?? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... Most car audio crap can handle up to 16 volts. 13.5-15 volts is normal for alternator output. His amp started going in to protection after cranking it up for 10 minutes. If I had to bet I would say a burnt voice coil popped the amps outputs. I have seen amps that were fried that had a delay going in to protection mode a few times, so that does not stick me as good news. In article , "MOSFET" wrote: You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder something. You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that at idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode? I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode then? Maybe someone else can speculate on this. MOSFET "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03... Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help. "ElGalanazo" wrote in message news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03... Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another amplifier. In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off, and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp. the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help. |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm coil
should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without burning another amp?? Thanks. |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Thanks. I did already and they read 2.1 and 2.2. They are wired for 2 ohms
so they are ok, right? Im planning on installing a RF 400RMS x2, although these subs are rated for 1100RMS each, for some reason I think that this RF amp should feed them enough power to each, right? What would be your recommendation for these in case I want to upgrade the amp? Thanks again. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm coil should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without burning another amp?? Thanks. |
#18
Posted to rec.audio.car
|
|||
|
|||
Amp blowing fuses, HELP
Your coils seem fine. See my reply to your other post.
In article zupPf.52032$kp3.7189@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: Thanks. I did already and they read 2.1 and 2.2. They are wired for 2 ohms so they are ok, right? Im planning on installing a RF 400RMS x2, although these subs are rated for 1100RMS each, for some reason I think that this RF amp should feed them enough power to each, right? What would be your recommendation for these in case I want to upgrade the amp? Thanks again. "Captain Howdy" wrote in message ... Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm coil should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo" wrote: I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without burning another amp?? Thanks. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Sub blowing fuses. help! | Car Audio | |||
Help! I keep blowing fuses on my head unit | Car Audio | |||
fuses blowing in #45 amplifier | Vacuum Tubes | |||
Corsa with JVC head unit blowing fuses | Car Audio | |||
Help! Blowing Fuses | Car Audio |