Please help me out with a few questions.

Some guy who installs audio systems was quoting some what I thought
unbeleivable power outputs from kicker amps. When I questioned him on
the current in, the power out didn't add up. I explained to him
Power=Volts*Amps. And you couldn't get more out.... He tried to
explain how class E worked with a whole lotta hand waving and a whole
bunch of audiophile terms. I don't think he knows ohms law In any
case is there some type of rating system that I am unaware of? Perhaps
there is an instantaneous rating or using capacitors to store a whole
bunch of joules...but I kinda doubt it. Is the 12v switched up to
some other voltage to get the power up in those 2ohm/4ohm cones?

Also with the Class E amplifiers most are putting in cars, are these
used mainly for the low end of the frequency range or near top as
well.

I interviewed, not so long ago, for a major home and auto audio
manufacturer in the area, and they were using switching topology for
only the bass drivers for automobiles. That is the impetus for my
question. FYI they are using, or at least experimenting with sub 1
ohm speaker coils.

I am not really into car audio too much, so just wanted to hear from
the experts. I've been a design engineer for many years doing large
Class D switching amplifiers for motor drives. Switching a kv at a
few hundred amps at 20kHz no prob. Long ago did some time at Mark
Levinson Audio Systems working on power supplies and Class A
amplifiers. Before that worked for Uncle Sam on some very powerful
amplifiers to drive hydrophones. PING!

regards
Yzordderrex

Some guy who installs audio systems was quoting some what I thought
unbeleivable power outputs from kicker amps. When I questioned him on
the current in, the power out didn't add up. I explained to him
Power=Volts*Amps. And you couldn't get more out.... He tried to
explain how class E worked with a whole lotta hand waving and a whole
bunch of audiophile terms. I don't think he knows ohms law In any
case is there some type of rating system that I am unaware of? Perhaps
there is an instantaneous rating or using capacitors to store a whole
bunch of joules...but I kinda doubt it. Is the 12v switched up to
some other voltage to get the power up in those 2ohm/4ohm cones?

Yes. In the supply stage of most car amplifiers, the 12v is converted to a
significantly higher voltage.

Also with the Class E amplifiers most are putting in cars, are these
used mainly for the low end of the frequency range or near top as
well.

Class E?

Hi,
Just remember simple law of energy conservation. You can't get more out
that what you put in no matter what. Isn't it basic law of physics.
Don't have to listen to a punk like him. It's waste of time.
Class A? It has worst efficiency. It conduction angle is whole 2 x Pi
radian(360 degrees)
Tony

Yzordderex wrote:

Please help me out with a few questions.

Some guy who installs audio systems was quoting some what I thought
unbeleivable power outputs from kicker amps. When I questioned him on
the current in, the power out didn't add up. I explained to him
Power=Volts*Amps. And you couldn't get more out.... He tried to
explain how class E worked with a whole lotta hand waving and a whole
bunch of audiophile terms. I don't think he knows ohms law In any
case is there some type of rating system that I am unaware of? Perhaps
there is an instantaneous rating or using capacitors to store a whole
bunch of joules...but I kinda doubt it. Is the 12v switched up to
some other voltage to get the power up in those 2ohm/4ohm cones?

Also with the Class E amplifiers most are putting in cars, are these
used mainly for the low end of the frequency range or near top as
well.

I interviewed, not so long ago, for a major home and auto audio
manufacturer in the area, and they were using switching topology for
only the bass drivers for automobiles. That is the impetus for my
question. FYI they are using, or at least experimenting with sub 1
ohm speaker coils.

I am not really into car audio too much, so just wanted to hear from
the experts. I've been a design engineer for many years doing large
Class D switching amplifiers for motor drives. Switching a kv at a
few hundred amps at 20kHz no prob. Long ago did some time at Mark
Levinson Audio Systems working on power supplies and Class A
amplifiers. Before that worked for Uncle Sam on some very powerful
amplifiers to drive hydrophones. PING!

regards
Yzordderrex

You cant squeeze blood out of a turnip.

A watt is a Volt*Amp, and amps would put up that kind of power IF (IF)
they were 100% efficient. The fact is however that they are only 25-35%
efficient, depending on the brand / model.

Most class AB amps are at least 45%-50%.

Yep, Most of this smack about "better than good is Bull****". Power=volts X
amps. And the really sad thing, is that a class B amp(most of ours) is only
50% efficient. So when you put 120 watts in(10 Amps)...only 60 watts out.
It's a damn hard world we live in.

Later,

James
"Yzordderex" wrote in message
om...
Please help me out with a few questions.

Some guy who installs audio systems was quoting some what I thought
unbeleivable power outputs from kicker amps. When I questioned him on
the current in, the power out didn't add up. I explained to him
Power=Volts*Amps. And you couldn't get more out.... He tried to
explain how class E worked with a whole lotta hand waving and a whole
bunch of audiophile terms. I don't think he knows ohms law In any
case is there some type of rating system that I am unaware of? Perhaps
there is an instantaneous rating or using capacitors to store a whole
bunch of joules...but I kinda doubt it. Is the 12v switched up to
some other voltage to get the power up in those 2ohm/4ohm cones?

Also with the Class E amplifiers most are putting in cars, are these
used mainly for the low end of the frequency range or near top as
well.

I interviewed, not so long ago, for a major home and auto audio
manufacturer in the area, and they were using switching topology for
only the bass drivers for automobiles. That is the impetus for my
question. FYI they are using, or at least experimenting with sub 1
ohm speaker coils.

I am not really into car audio too much, so just wanted to hear from
the experts. I've been a design engineer for many years doing large
Class D switching amplifiers for motor drives. Switching a kv at a
few hundred amps at 20kHz no prob. Long ago did some time at Mark
Levinson Audio Systems working on power supplies and Class A
amplifiers. Before that worked for Uncle Sam on some very powerful
amplifiers to drive hydrophones. PING!

regards
Yzordderrex