I am trying to get back to soldering after many years - I would need
some quick tips from the seasoned pros to get up to speed...

Is there a specific type of solder that is most commonly used for
typical audio connectors/components (to be used in patchbays, internal
speaker connectors, typical audio cables, etc.) for its good
conductivity? (and where can I find it?)

Would anyone specifically recommend an iron ?

Any soldering tips in general that would help ?

Thanks in advance - all your comments GREATLY appreciated!


JACK

BTMG MUSIC

I get all my soldering goodies at radio shack.
there's not much choice, anyway. i use 63/37
..050 dia rosin-core solder, but i also have
some larger stuff. i think my iron is 35 watts,
maybe 50. i don't know the brand, but it has
replaceable tips available at....radio shack!
i usually use thin tips. low wattage irons are
perfect for audio because you'll want to localize
the heat without melting things around it.

when i solder, as soon as the connection is hot
enough, i'll apply the solder, let it flow a
second or two, then remove the iron. if the iron
is too hot, or you're not quick enough to apply
the solder as soon as the connection is hot enough,
then heat could transmit to areas that shouldn't
get hot. switches, plugs, jacks, etc., have
plastic that can melt. cable insulation can also
melt, and multi-conductor cables can short out.

i think soldering is designed for people with
three hands, but two is fine if you really
work at it. soldering is tedious, but invaluable
for fixing, making custom cables, etc.

On Tue, Aug 19, 2003 11:54 pm, JWP wrote:
I am trying to get back to soldering after many years - I would need
some quick tips from the seasoned pros to get up to speed...

Is there a specific type of solder that is most commonly used for
typical audio connectors/components (to be used in patchbays, internal
speaker connectors, typical audio cables, etc.) for its good
conductivity? (and where can I find it?)


There is a product called "Wondersolder" that is supposed to be more
"Frequency Spectrum Accurate"..but I think that's just hype. I've been
using the Kester high silver content stuff and it seems to work fine. In a
previous solder thread someone quite smartly stated that .. "the solder
just binds, it isn't the contact surface"





Would anyone specifically recommend an iron ?

Weller CTCP, or WT-60. Any of the Weller ones that you can swap tips on
variable tempratures, and pointedness, are good



Any soldering tips in general that would help ?


Tin the wires, tin the connectors.... Tin the iron ( especially for DB
connectors)
If you are doing a lot of cables.. prep all the cables, tin all the
cables, solder em all.
Getting fast at soldring large ammounts of connections is mostly the
methodology you use. Machine like works best. having done all the Edacs on
100 rows of a Euphonics Tower, where the mic lines were all on Star Quad...
I know

Also a Hellerman Tool, and teflon tubing are useful. And a type of wire
that is easy to work with. I did my studio in Belden 9180 ( a 24AWG 110 Ohm
) wich is really easy to work with.

Weller irons are very good and just about all parts are available for
replacement.

Gareth.




"JWP" wrote in message
...
I am trying to get back to soldering after many years - I would need
some quick tips from the seasoned pros to get up to speed...

Is there a specific type of solder that is most commonly used for
typical audio connectors/components (to be used in patchbays, internal
speaker connectors, typical audio cables, etc.) for its good
conductivity? (and where can I find it?)

Would anyone specifically recommend an iron ?

Any soldering tips in general that would help ?

Thanks in advance - all your comments GREATLY appreciated!


JACK

BTMG MUSIC

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...

nmm" wrote in message
...

Solder provides a stable conductive path. A clean, "wet" solder joint is
necessary for good performance.

In a previous solder thread someone quite smartly stated that...
"The solder just binds, it isn't the contact surface."

Not at all smart. If that were true in any practical sense, you could just
stick
two wires together and glob glue over them. Try that, in "no time" you'll
have a
bad connection.

I think the point he is trying to make is that a major key to a good
soldered connection is a good mechanical connection.

The fact that properly-made crimped and wire-wrap connections work so well,
is proof enough that solder need not be present for a good electrical
connection.

The poor performance of gobbed-glue electrical connections proves nothing,
as most glues tend to find their way in-between the conductors, due to
capillary action.

However, if you gob glue on a properly-crimped or wire-wrapped connection,
nothing bad happens because a metal-to-metal seal already exists.

Another function of solder is ensuring a gas-tight seal between the two
conductors. Solder isn't the only material that does this well, as
demonstrated by the use of silicon grease in many "weatherproof" crimp
connectors.

I've been using 3M U-series IDC silicon-filled crimp connectors for
low-voltage low-current including audio signal applications for years, and
have seen zero failures across 100's of connections. They are a lot faster
than soldering, far easier to do away from the bench, and at least as
effective as solder.

http://www.3m.com/market/electrical/...g/IDC_01.jhtml

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/613/415.pdf

I am trying to get back to soldering after many years - I would need
some quick tips from the seasoned pros to get up to speed...

Is there a specific type of solder that is most commonly used for
typical audio connectors/components (to be used in patchbays, internal
speaker connectors, typical audio cables, etc.) for its good
conductivity? (and where can I find it?)

Would anyone specifically recommend an iron ?

Any soldering tips in general that would help ?

Thanks in advance - all your comments GREATLY appreciated!


JACK

BTMG MUSIC


I got a variable temperature iron from MCM electronics that I like very much.
Digital readout on set temperature and tip temp.

Interchangable tips which are much less expensive than Weller or Ungar.

Price was about $90 on sale and it is MCM house brand of Tenma.

I've used it for 5 years with absolutely no problems.

I generally use Ersin solder,but there are a lot of choices out there.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

i like multicore solder. On the kind i get it says sn63 x32b.

I use .063 in 16swg, thinner stuff for delicate work, but i don't do any
delicate work.


P h i l i p

______________________________

"I'm too ****ing busy and vice-versa"

- Dorothy Parker

Is there a specific type of solder that is most commonly used for
typical audio connectors/components (to be used in patchbays, internal
speaker connectors, typical audio cables, etc.) for its good
conductivity? (and where can I find it?)

Get any 63/37 solder. I like Kester, other folks like Ersin Multicore.
Any good electronics supplier will stock a variety of sizes. Try Digi-Key
if you don't have anyone local.

Would anyone specifically recommend an iron ?

Buy any variable temperature iron you want. I like the old Wellers, but
Hakko makes some nice ones for much less now.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Thanks for all the tips so far!
Very helpful!


Cheers!



JACK

Arny Krueger wrote:

(snip)

I think the point he is trying to make is that a major key to a good
soldered connection is a good mechanical connection.

The fact that properly-made crimped and wire-wrap connections work so well,
is proof enough that solder need not be present for a good electrical
connection.

I agree. Crimping actually produces a "pressure weld" which
is even better than solder. If I have a crimp option on
cables and connectors I use it over soldering or screw
downs.

(snip)

Cheers.

Roger
--
Roger Jones, P.Eng.
Thornhill, Ontario,
Canada.

"Friends don't let friends vote Liberal"

The best soldering equipment is Pace (IMO)

My company has a Pace ST-25 control module with a SP-2 soldering pen
and a Pace ST-75 control module/ vacuum pump and an SX-80 Solder
Xtractor handle. These units are the analog temp control units. I
will probably be going with some of their surface mount stuff sometime
in the future too.

The solder I use the most is Muticore SN60 .032".

In article writes:

The best soldering equipment is Pace (IMO)

It's also the most expensive. Some Pace soldering stations provide
capabilities that aren't really necessary or even desirable for wiring
audio connectors and patchbays.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers - )

In article znr1061485669k@trad, Mike Rivers wrote:
In article writes:

The best soldering equipment is Pace (IMO)

It's also the most expensive. Some Pace soldering stations provide
capabilities that aren't really necessary or even desirable for wiring
audio connectors and patchbays.

We've got a Pace SMT station here, and I have to admit that I like the
Hakko more.

Sometimes, though, I will just use the ancient Weller in my office rather
than go down the hall to use either one. The new Chipquik alloy makes it
possible to do a lot of SMT work with a cheap little iron. It's not the
best by any means, but it's right here.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

I have to admit that I like the
Hakko more. BRBR


I have to say the Hakko equipment is pretty good. I've been real happy with the
stuff I have, including the self-contained vacuum desoldering tool. (808 I
think is the model).

Good value.

Ever read the Hakko site? I haven't looked at it in a long time, but there used
to be some pretty wry and funny stuff in their tech-tips area.


--
Dr. Nuketopia
Sorry, no e-Mail.
Spam forgeries have resulted in thousands of faked bounces to my address.

What do you think about punchblock? I ask because I may be installing a
patchbay with punchblock on the back. Is this considered a good mechanical
connection?

Rob R.

Arny Krueger wrote:

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...

nmm" wrote in message
...

Solder provides a stable conductive path. A clean, "wet" solder joint is
necessary for good performance.

In a previous solder thread someone quite smartly stated that...
"The solder just binds, it isn't the contact surface."

Not at all smart. If that were true in any practical sense, you could just
stick
two wires together and glob glue over them. Try that, in "no time" you'll
have a
bad connection.

I think the point he is trying to make is that a major key to a good
soldered connection is a good mechanical connection.

The fact that properly-made crimped and wire-wrap connections work so well,
is proof enough that solder need not be present for a good electrical
connection.

The poor performance of gobbed-glue electrical connections proves nothing,
as most glues tend to find their way in-between the conductors, due to
capillary action.

However, if you gob glue on a properly-crimped or wire-wrapped connection,
nothing bad happens because a metal-to-metal seal already exists.

Another function of solder is ensuring a gas-tight seal between the two
conductors. Solder isn't the only material that does this well, as
demonstrated by the use of silicon grease in many "weatherproof" crimp
connectors.

I've been using 3M U-series IDC silicon-filled crimp connectors for
low-voltage low-current including audio signal applications for years, and
have seen zero failures across 100's of connections. They are a lot faster
than soldering, far easier to do away from the bench, and at least as
effective as solder.

http://www.3m.com/market/electrical/...g/IDC_01.jhtml

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/613/415.pdf

In article Rob Reedijk
writes:
What do you think about punchblock? I ask because I may be installing a
patchbay with punchblock on the back. Is this considered a good mechanical
connection?

Rob R.


Contrary to what would seem a rather unreliable system, the ADC punchblock
patchbays have been very reliable around here. I removed a pair of bantam 96
point bays from a studio, removed all the wiring, and reinstalled new wiring in
a different room. Every one of the new connections has been solid for 5 years.
(This is one of the ADC units with the remoted punchblock.) We have several
other ADC punch-style patchbays and they're all fine even after multiple
re-use.

So I guess now that I've said that, they'll all go bad. We're moving the
entire mess out for a year or two and then back. What fun.

-Jay
--
x------- Jay Kadis ------- x---- Jay's Attic Studio ----x
x Lecturer, Audio Engineer x Dexter Records x
x CCRMA, Stanford University x http://www.offbeats.com/ x
x-------- http://ccrma-www.stanford.edu/~jay/ ----------x

"Rob Reedijk" wrote in message


What do you think about punchblock?

More very sound, reliable technology if done right.

I ask because I may be
installing a patchbay with punchblock on the back. Is this
considered a good mechanical connection?

Not at all. If you look at any good punchblock installations, they have
means for providing mechanical strain relief for the cables. The cables are
supposed to be firmly tied down, and the wires are supposed to have slack in
them as they are dressed over towards the punch down block.

If you pull hard on an unsecured punched-down cable, you should be able to
pull it out by its "roots" pretty easily.

The same applies to any well-terminated cable system. Strain relief and
electrical connection should be by two completely different means. That's
the essence of a well-attached cable/XLR assembly as well.