[MOSFET]

I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!

MOSFET

[GregS]

In article , "MOSFET" wrote:
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!

Very nice that your happy.


Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels
required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop
talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power
only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level.
I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph!

Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive
to voltage input.

greg

[Matt Ion]

GregS wrote:
In article , "MOSFET" wrote:

I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!


Very nice that your happy.


Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels
required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop
talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power
only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level.
I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph!

Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive
to voltage input.

MOST amps are very sensitive to voltage input. Manufacturers count on it to
fudge their power specs: you can boost your test bench supply up to 15V and get
a much higher power reading than your customer is going to get when they're
barely giving it 12.5-13V with their car idling and/or with everything else
running, and there's nothing "requiring" them to list what voltage input they
actually got their power specs at.

You won't see as big an advantage with a regulated amp, since it's designed to
provide the same output across a wide range of supply voltages by its power
supply already doing something similar to the Accuvolt.

[Mariachi]

On Feb 16, 9:06 am, (GregS) wrote:
In article , "MOSFET" wrote:
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!

Very nice that your happy.

Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels
required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop
talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power
only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level.
I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph!

Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive
to voltage input.

greg


Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker
is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the
efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not
the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a
speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a
sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if
your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound.
Power = Voltage * Amperage. A higher voltage battery may help the
volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to
output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that
with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor
would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be
easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a
bass hit.

Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of
the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and
whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire
resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of
the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the
speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin
resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by
the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin
resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you
not get as much power as before.

[MOSFET]

.. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor
would boost the voltage of the capacitor


?????????

A 14.4 v battery? As my voltage is ALWAYS a little below this point, how
would my existing alternator overcome the internal resistance of the battery
to charge it? Furthermore, my car is DESIGNED to work with a 12 volt
battery. Do you mean I should get an ALTERNATOR that will put out 14.4
volts at 100 amperers? If so, I know.


and therefore it will be
easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a
bass hit.

Huh? Almost ALL capacitors can disapate ALL of their amperage nearly
instantly (unlike a battery), trust me, I know from PERSONAL experience (and
it wasn't pretty)! A capacitor does not need any "help" when it comes to
disapating current. I think you have a few things confused.


Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of
the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and
whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire
resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of
the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the
speaker.

Do you know what we are even talking about? I would suggest reading through
this group's FAQ at:

http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

This explains the relationship between voltage, current, watts and how these
things effect your system.

MOSFET

[GregS]

In article .com, "Mariachi" wrote:
On Feb 16, 9:06 am, (GregS) wrote:
In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!

Very nice that your happy.

Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels
required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop
talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power
only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level.
I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph!

Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive
to voltage input.

greg


Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker
is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the
efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not

I think your missing my point. People talk about power all the time, and it
thoroughly confuses them. When you want to double SPL, your suppose to
double voltage. You don't double power(except in example below), yet many
think that way. When you want to increase sound pressure, you need to increase
the driving voltage. Of course the current also increases, but thats only a
secondary action, because voltage is increasing. It would be close if
everybody said you need twice the drive ( voltage) to get twice the volume.
Thats the way ears should respond. They are getting twice the signal. We know
the hearing is nonlinear, and also varies with absolute volume.

The one interesting about power, SPL, and efficiency, if you take identical
drivers as opposed to one, meaning twice the drive potential, you
will get twice the SPL level to the ears. Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4
power increase, but using only twice the power.

greg


the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a
speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a
sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if
your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound.
Power = Voltage * Amperage. A higher voltage battery may help the
volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to
output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that
with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor
would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be
easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a
bass hit.

Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of
the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and
whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire
resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of
the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the
speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin
resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by
the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin
resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you
not get as much power as before.

[MOSFET]

I noticed that with the addition of the Accuvolt, my amp runs cooler now as
well. Before, if I spent, let's say, 1/2 hour listening to bass heavy
music, my SS Ref. 700 would be so hot you could not lay your hand on it for
more than an instant.

NOW, with the Accuvolt, I noticed yesterday that I could lay my hand on the
amp and it was simply very warm (I COULD leave my hand sitting on the amp).
This was after a LONG, PUNISHING session with the Bass Mekanik.

MOSFET

[D.Kreft]

On Feb 16, 1:21 pm, "MOSFET" wrote:
I noticed that with the addition of the Accuvolt, my amp runs cooler now as
well. Before, if I spent, let's say, 1/2 hour listening to bass heavy
music, my SS Ref. 700 would be so hot you could not lay your hand on it for
more than an instant.

NOW, with the Accuvolt, I noticed yesterday that I could lay my hand on the
amp and it was simply very warm (I COULD leave my hand sitting on the amp).
This was after a LONG, PUNISHING session with the Bass Mekanik.

MOSFET

I wonder how long your alternator is going to last?

As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing...so
you have installed a black-magic box that basically sucks more current
from your battery, does some hand-waving and then spits it out as a
constant voltage.

How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed
the Accuvolt?

-dan

[Mariachi]

I think your missing my point. People talk about power all the time, and it
thoroughly confuses them. When you want to double SPL, your suppose to
double voltage. You don't double power(except in example below), yet many
think that way. When you want to increase sound pressure, you need to increase
the driving voltage. Of course the current also increases, but thats only a
secondary action, because voltage is increasing. It would be close if
everybody said you need twice the drive ( voltage) to get twice the volume.
Thats the way ears should respond. They are getting twice the signal. We know
the hearing is nonlinear, and also varies with absolute volume.

The one interesting about power, SPL, and efficiency, if you take identical
drivers as opposed to one, meaning twice the drive potential, you
will get twice the SPL level to the ears. Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4
power increase, but using only twice the power.

If you increase the voltage across the speaker and also the current
therefore, how is that not increasing power? Power = (Voltage^2)/R
and Power also = Voltage * Current... if you double the voltage across
the speaker, you get four times the power dissipated by the speaker.
Again, how is voltage not related to power? This is what amplifiers
do, they step up the voltage for the sole purpose of getting more
power to the speaker. "Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4 power
increase, but using only twice the power." Wait... you just said a 6
dB increase is a X4 power increase. Then you say it is the same thing
as twice the power? You may be thinking of twice the voltage and
therefore power increases 4 times. Again, the amplifier is the main
component that increases the voltage, not the battery. However,
having a higher voltage battery might be better for large current
drains over a period of time. But if you have a 12 V battery that is
capable of draining 100 amps of current continuously, and a 14.4 V
battery that only drains 50 amps continuously, then you are better off
with the 12 V battery. It all depends on the quality of the battery.
But generally speaking, 14.4 V batteries are made to pump more
continuous amps during a long period of time than a standard 12 V
battery. If you want to prove your point out to me, you need to give
me mathematical equations to support your claim. I see where you are
coming from, but I think you are confused on the relationship with
voltage and power.

Huh? Almost ALL capacitors can disapate ALL of their amperage nearly
instantly (unlike a battery), trust me, I know from PERSONAL experience (and
it wasn't pretty)! A capacitor does not need any "help" when it comes to
disapating current. I think you have a few things confused.

Capacitors does not dissipate amperage. I think what you meant to say
is dissipate their charge. Capacitors do not store amps, they store
charge. When you drain charge from the capacitor you get a continuous
flow of charge which is current. Draining the capacitor of charge
leaves less electric potential between the capacitor's plates, which
is why capacitor's loose voltage when you hit a bass note. If you
have zero resistance between the positive and negative terminal of the
capacitor, you get a lot of moving electrons (a lot of current).
Since V = I * R, if you have zero resistance and 12 Vs. 12 V / 0
Ohms, equals infinity amps. In reality, it is impossible to get
infinity amps because the wire always has resistance. The amount of
charge that the capacitor can hold is q = Capacitance * Voltage.
Therefore, the capacitor holds more charge at 14.4 Volts than at 12
Volts.


Do you know what we are even talking about? I would suggest reading through
this group's FAQ at:

http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

This explains the relationship between voltage, current, watts and how these
things effect your system.

I didn't really see anything helpful in there... more like a beginners
guide. And yes, the maximum power dissipated by the load is a
"general" concept in electronics. Maximum power that the load can
dissipate is when the load resistance equals the thevenin resistance.
I suggest you research what thevenin resistance means before you get
into maximum power.

[Captain Howdy]

Glad to know its working for ya. But with all that said dont ya find that your
new findings totally go against alot of things that you said over the years
about amplifiers? Its nice to see that you are learning about an area of car
audio that many people ignore. What a differance a little more voltage can
make huh?


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I
set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5
farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to
that amp.

Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all
(including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!).

I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80
amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for
this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell
of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the
future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp,
though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch
225.2).

Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY
crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5
(WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts.

Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as
well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the
stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!!

I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my
system at:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697

Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the
subtraction of the 1.5 cap.

THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!!

MOSFET

[Captain Howdy]

How do you get one without the other? Thats like saying that water is not wet.



Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker
is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the
efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not
the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a
speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a
sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if
your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound.
Power = Voltage * Amperage.




Or could it be because the 14.4V battery doesnt need to output as much
amperage as the 12V battery to do the same amount of work?


A higher voltage battery may help the
volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to
output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that
with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor
would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be
easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a
bass hit.

Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of
the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and
whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire
resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of
the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the
speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin
resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by
the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin
resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you
not get as much power as before.

[MOSFET]

As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing...

It's funny you mentioned this because I just had a similar conversation
today with a 16 year old just getting into car audio.

The way I explained it to him was that the ONLY thing that can make power in
a car is the alternator, that's it. You CANNOT create power out of thin air
or any type of black box. The ONLY, and I MEAN ONLY, reason these magical
devices like the capacitor and Accuvolt SEEM to give you more power is due
to the transient nature of music (unlike headlights) AND the fact that we
don't always listen at the same volume levels.

I told him that these devices "manipulate" my car's power supply to maximize
the current for the stereo when it needs it the most.

And yes, my alternator does not have long to live I expect with this new
toy. Frankly, I'm surprised it has lasted this long. In ALL my previous
cars I usually fry my alternator (and then replace with a HO model) within a
year. But this stock 80 ampere sucker is like the God damn Energizer Bunny.

But I have a line on a guy here in my town who's an EE, mechanic and a
"kind-of" friend. He said he might be able to rebuild my existing
alternator with more copper windings to achieve the desired results. I
told him it would really only be cost effective, IMHO, if he could AT LEAST
increase max amperage to 120 OR MORE.

BTW, what would a job like this typically cost? We were "dancing" around a
price (we still haven't agreed on one, but we were in the neighborhood of
$75, he is a friend, though not a close friend) and I have NO IDEA how much
labor would be involved (assuming I take it out of the car and re-install it
myself). Any info on this subject would be GREATLY appreciated.

MOSFET

[Mariachi]

On Feb 17, 12:15 am, "MOSFET" wrote:
As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing...

It's funny you mentioned this because I just had a similar conversation
today with a 16 year old just getting into car audio.

The way I explained it to him was that the ONLY thing that can make power in
a car is the alternator, that's it. You CANNOT create power out of thin air
or any type of black box. The ONLY, and I MEAN ONLY, reason these magical
devices like the capacitor and Accuvolt SEEM to give you more power is due
to the transient nature of music (unlike headlights) AND the fact that we
don't always listen at the same volume levels.

I told him that these devices "manipulate" my car's power supply to maximize
the current for the stereo when it needs it the most.

And yes, my alternator does not have long to live I expect with this new
toy. Frankly, I'm surprised it has lasted this long. In ALL my previous
cars I usually fry my alternator (and then replace with a HO model) within a
year. But this stock 80 ampere sucker is like the God damn Energizer Bunny.

But I have a line on a guy here in my town who's an EE, mechanic and a
"kind-of" friend. He said he might be able to rebuild my existing
alternator with more copper windings to achieve the desired results. I
told him it would really only be cost effective, IMHO, if he could AT LEAST
increase max amperage to 120 OR MORE.

BTW, what would a job like this typically cost? We were "dancing" around a
price (we still haven't agreed on one, but we were in the neighborhood of
$75, he is a friend, though not a close friend) and I have NO IDEA how much
labor would be involved (assuming I take it out of the car and re-install it
myself). Any info on this subject would be GREATLY appreciated.

MOSFET

Don't forget that the battery carries potential chemical energy. The
more current you draw from your battery, the less potential chemical
energy you have from your battery. This is what the alternator is
for. The alternator reverses the drainage process and actually
increases the potential chemical energy of the battery to a certain
limit. Alternators create energy by a moving magnetic field. The
moving magnetic field induces a changing electric field which causes
an electron flow (current). Technically, you cannot create energy
(unless you have the antimatter and the matter colliding effect), but
you can convert one type of energy to another type of energy. In the
case of the alternator, you are transforming changing magnetic energy
into electrical energy. If you want to really get into specifics you
should look up Maxwell's equations. Why is there so many copper wires
around the alternator? Because the more copper wires around the
alternator, the more "free" electrons there are to induce. However,
adding wires around the alternator might help, but in order to produce
a significant increase in current, one should take into account the
size of the magnet.

[MOSFET]

Don't forget that the battery carries potential chemical energy.

But it does not CREATE energy. That was the point I was making. In fact,
because of the internal resistance of 12 volt batteries, when your engine is
running, your battery ACTUALLY BECOMES A LOAD WITHIN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
In other words, when the car is running (and your alternator is providing
the power), your battery becomes just another electrical accessory that
demands power.

MOSFET

[MOSFET]

How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed
the Accuvolt?

In a word.....bad (well, in truth, only when I crank up the bass).

When I pump the bass up the lights dim much more than before (actually, they
really didn't dim at all before thanks to my four farads of capacitance),
that is, indeed, true.

Of course, Dan, I knew this would happen.

The Accuvolt is just madly sucking current from my battery. But I like to
think of my Accuvolt as Nitrous Oxide for my bass amp (though this is not a
perfect analogy as my Accuvolt is always on when my system is on). But like
NOS, if I crank my bass TOO OFTEN, I will run into problems and quickly fry
my alternator and it's possible I could even deplete the battery WHILE
DRIVING (and that's with a perfectly functional 80 ampere alternator)!!!!

So, like NOS, it's nice to know it's there, but I am judicious about
playing REALLY loud bass.

MOSFET

[Captain Howdy]

LOL


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed
the Accuvolt?

In a word.....bad (well, in truth, only when I crank up the bass).

When I pump the bass up the lights dim much more than before (actually, they
really didn't dim at all before thanks to my four farads of capacitance),
that is, indeed, true.

Of course, Dan, I knew this would happen.

The Accuvolt is just madly sucking current from my battery. But I like to
think of my Accuvolt as Nitrous Oxide for my bass amp (though this is not a
perfect analogy as my Accuvolt is always on when my system is on). But like
NOS, if I crank my bass TOO OFTEN, I will run into problems and quickly fry
my alternator and it's possible I could even deplete the battery WHILE
DRIVING (and that's with a perfectly functional 80 ampere alternator)!!!!

So, like NOS, it's nice to know it's there, but I am judicious about
playing REALLY loud bass.

MOSFET