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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP,
and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. |
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#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote:
hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. |
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#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 7:26 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. ok cool so i should get those foam baffles and then try an amp? |
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#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 10:39 pm, wrote:
On Feb 9, 7:26 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. ok cool so i should get those foam baffles and then try an amp? there are many ways to baffle your speakers... just do whatever seems suitable to you.. If it were me, I would go to crutchfield, ebay, or some audio shop and just buy a set of baffles for the 6.5's. The main point is you want isolate the back from the front of the speaker. Also, if you don't have your speaker baffled there is no air resistance behind the speaker when the woofer cone moves it puts too much stress on the coil and you can damage your speaker coil when playing at high wattages. I always like to have a clean setup before I install any high-power amp. |
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#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 7:39 pm, wrote:
On Feb 9, 7:26 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. ok cool so i should get those foam baffles and then try an amp. so i heard that rockford is not a good brand because they tend to die fast, is that true, and also if they are 6.5s and my car had 6.5s how come i had to cut out the door to make them fit? |
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#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 7:47 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
On Feb 9, 10:39 pm, wrote: On Feb 9, 7:26 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. ok cool so i should get those foam baffles and then try an amp? there are many ways to baffle your speakers... just do whatever seems suitable to you.. If it were me, I would go to crutchfield, ebay, or some audio shop and just buy a set of baffles for the 6.5's. The main point is you want isolate the back from the front of the speaker. Also, if you don't have your speaker baffled there is no air resistance behind the speaker when the woofer cone moves it puts too much stress on the coil and you can damage your speaker coil when playing at high wattages. I always like to have a clean setup before I install any high-power am if i do get the baffles should i cut a hole to kinda port it? i heard it helps. |
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#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 7:53 pm, wrote:
On Feb 9, 7:47 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: On Feb 9, 10:39 pm, wrote: On Feb 9, 7:26 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. If you don't have your speakers baffled by isolating the front from the back, that might be your biggest problem. Doesn't matter how much power you give it, the bass waves will cancel out. Some 6.5's have higher sensitivity for highs/midrange and lower sensitivity for lows. If you're running your 6.5's off your head unit, then don't expect too much from the low end of the spectrum. 6x9's are a bigger speaker, therefore generally it doesn't require as much wattage for bass notes. A general rule of thumb is, the bigger the woofer cone the more bass it pumps out at a certain wattage. In order to get a decent amount of bass from your 6.5's, you need have the speaker baffled, and you need sufficient power from an amp. And don't forget you need good connections and good wires. Some loud speakers need to be run at a certain high wattage in order to produce a decent sound. ok cool so i should get those foam baffles and then try an amp? there are many ways to baffle your speakers... just do whatever seems suitable to you.. If it were me, I would go to crutchfield, ebay, or some audio shop and just buy a set of baffles for the 6.5's. The main point is you want isolate the back from the front of the speaker. Also, if you don't have your speaker baffled there is no air resistance behind the speaker when the woofer cone moves it puts too much stress on the coil and you can damage your speaker coil when playing at high wattages. I always like to have a clean setup before I install any high-power am if i do get the baffles should i cut a hole to kinda port it? i heard it helps. sorry, if i am being a bug just want to get the facts right. |
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#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote:
hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. Correction... You want air resistance behind the speaker but not too much air resistance. If you get too much air resistance the woofer cone won't move at all. A baffle is good for bass response if you know what you are doing. I suggest if you use a baffle, you cut a 3 inch diameter hole in the back of the baffle. I'm don't really know a lot about baffles, but I do know you need to isolate the front from the back of the speaker. There is probably a thread about this somewhere else in this group. Hold on... |
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#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 9, 10:57 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
On Feb 9, 10:03 pm, wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. Correction... You want air resistance behind the speaker but not too much air resistance. If you get too much air resistance the woofer cone won't move at all. A baffle is good for bass response if you know what you are doing. I suggest if you use a baffle, you cut a 3 inch diameter hole in the back of the baffle. I'm don't really know a lot about baffles, but I do know you need to isolate the front from the back of the speaker. There is probably a thread about this somewhere else in this group. Hold on... just search for the word "baffle" in this group, and you will get a lot of posts about it. |
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#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
Just out of curiosity what kind of car are you instslling these in.I
actually have the same speakers up front in my truck and am not running baffels or an amp and they sound amazing and i even have the bass on my HU turned down to zero. Well good luck with your system! TroyT. |
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#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
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#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 10, 1:08 pm, Matt Ion wrote:
wrote: hi i am kind of a newbie, i recently installed a Pioneer DEH-P4800MP, and Rockford punch P162S in the front and "power 6x9 2-Way Full-Range Speakers" in the rear. i love the rear but the front 6.5s aren't giving any bass. they where really expensive and they just don't sound good, the highs are Cristal clear, i was wondering if i had to amp them or get the baffles or what. i am looking at the fosgate punch P450.4. Ugh... I can't believe nobody's stepped in here yet with some REAL advice. Okay... first, those foam "baffles" are NOT going to help your bass. NOT. Bass frequencies will travel right through them and you're right back where you started. Second, they're NOT going to affect the air mass that the driver "sees" because they'll flex right along with the sound waves. Third, the types of drivers you're dealing with, since they're almost always mounted in what amounts to an "infinite baffle" setting (like a door or a car's rear deck), are DESIGNED to work best without an small enclosure behind them. Yes, you do need a baffle to improve bass response. A "baffle" in this case is any continuous mounting surface that separates the front of the speaker from the back. Whether it's a box enclosing the back of the driver, or a sheet of plywood, it performs the same function: blocking the backwave of the cone from cancelling out the front wave. If the speakers are in the doors, you need to make sure there are no holes or gaps between the area behind the speaker and the area in front of it. There should be no gaps between the surround frame and whatever it's mounted to. Most door panels are cheap plastic or cardboard and can also flex with the bass, thus cancelling the bass frequencies, especially with all the holes that normally exist in the metal so covering the door under the panel with a sound deadener (like Dynamat) can help as well. Many years ago, I had a 1980 Mazda GLC, in which the door panels were literally just a flat sheet of cardboard with a vinyl cover. I used them as templates to cut new panels out of 1/4" MDF (medium-density fiberboard) and mounted the 6.5" Alpine speakers in those, and got some very good (for 6.5") bass out of them. So yes, the baffles are the critical piece of your puzzle, but you need to understand what a baffle really is, and how it affects the sound. Ultimately though, your standard 6.5" speaker simply doesn't move a lot of air, especially not one with a tweeter or two stuck in the middle (because that design limits how far the cone can move, not because the tweeter "blocks" the sound), and you're just not going to get a lot of bass out of them. 6x9s are not a lot better in that regard - the ONLY way to get proper bass is with a subwoofer. depends on your speakers... there are actually some 4-ways that have better bass than a 2-way or component system. My 6x9 4-ways have a longer pole for the midrange and tweeter sections than most 6x9 4-ways so it leaves more room for the woofer cone. I can put 100 Watts in my 6x9's and it the bass is actually louder than most subwoofers at 100 Watts. Why? I don't know for sure, but maybe it is because that subwoofers require more wattage to get higher volumes (less sensitivity). Although the bass quality from my 6x9's are not better than a subwoofer's quality, it still produces decent bass for a 6x9. |
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#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
Mariachi wrote:
depends on your speakers... there are actually some 4-ways that have better bass than a 2-way or component system. My 6x9 4-ways have a longer pole for the midrange and tweeter sections than most 6x9 4-ways so it leaves more room for the woofer cone. I can put 100 Watts in my 6x9's and it the bass is actually louder than most subwoofers at 100 Watts. Why? I don't know for sure, but maybe it is because that subwoofers require more wattage to get higher volumes (less sensitivity). Although the bass quality from my 6x9's are not better than a subwoofer's quality, it still produces decent bass for a 6x9. A lot depends on the mounting. The old (early-80s) Firebirds and Trans-Ams used to get an astounding amount of bass out of rear-deck-mounted 6x9s, even without much power, because the shape of the back window effectively horn-loaded the drivers, helping to enhance and direct the bass. Even my Accord hatchback gets way more bass with its single 10" sub sitting in a back corner of the hatch than it does with the sub placed right behind the driver's seat. Fact is, a 6x9 typically has less surface area than an 8" sub, and even with longer tweeter mounts, generally less excursion than a dedicated sub is capable of, due in part to the limitations of the oval design (which wreaks havok on the sound anyway). It's a hack driver design that should have been abandoned years ago, let alone ever existed in the first place. |
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#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 10, 10:08 am, Matt Ion wrote:
Okay... first, those foam "baffles" are NOT going to help your bass. NOT. Bass frequencies will travel right through them and you're right back where you started. Second, they're NOT going to affect the air mass that the driver "sees" because they'll flex right along with the sound waves. Right. The only thing a foam baffle is going to do is keep dust, grime and water (if installed properly) off of your speakers. Third, the types of drivers you're dealing with, since they're almost always mounted in what amounts to an "infinite baffle" setting (like a door or a car's rear deck), are DESIGNED to work best without an small enclosure behind them. In general terms, yes, I agree with this assessment. However, it should be pointed out that an enclosure that is equal to or greater than the speaker's Vas will yield an "infinite baffle" alignment. So yes, the baffles are the critical piece of your puzzle, but you need to understand what a baffle really is, and how it affects the sound. Preach it, brother Matt! :-) Ultimately though, your standard 6.5" speaker simply doesn't move a lot of air, especially not one with a tweeter or two stuck in the middle (because that design limits how far the cone can move, not because the tweeter "blocks" the sound), and you're just not going to get a lot of bass out of them. I don't know that this is necessarily a restricting factor. I think the fact that most coaxes don't have tremendous linear Xmax is due more to the price point of the speakers than a fundamental physical limitation of the design. After all, the longer the Xmax is, the harder it is to design and implement a driver that will perform well across that range--it's one of the reasons why speakers such as the JL Audio W6's and W7's are so stinkin' expensive. It takes a lot of engineering to do it right. 6x9s are not a lot better in that regard - the ONLY way to get proper bass is with a subwoofer. No, the only way to get proper SUBbass is with a SUBwoofer. There's no reason why you cannot get "proper" (whatever that is) bass (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Sub_bass) from a well-designed and properly installed 6x9 or even 6.5" driver. -dan |
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#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 11, 7:39 pm, "D.Kreft" wrote:
On Feb 10, 10:08 am, Matt Ion wrote: Okay... first, those foam "baffles" are NOT going to help your bass. NOT. Bass frequencies will travel right through them and you're right back where you started. Second, they're NOT going to affect the air mass that the driver "sees" because they'll flex right along with the sound waves. Right. The only thing a foam baffle is going to do is keep dust, grime and water (if installed properly) off of your speakers. Third, the types of drivers you're dealing with, since they're almost always mounted in what amounts to an "infinite baffle" setting (like a door or a car's rear deck), are DESIGNED to work best without an small enclosure behind them. In general terms, yes, I agree with this assessment. However, it should be pointed out that an enclosure that is equal to or greater than the speaker's Vas will yield an "infinite baffle" alignment. So yes, the baffles are the critical piece of your puzzle, but you need to understand what a baffle really is, and how it affects the sound. Preach it, brother Matt! :-) Ultimately though, your standard 6.5" speaker simply doesn't move a lot of air, especially not one with a tweeter or two stuck in the middle (because that design limits how far the cone can move, not because the tweeter "blocks" the sound), and you're just not going to get a lot of bass out of them. I don't know that this is necessarily a restricting factor. I think the fact that most coaxes don't have tremendous linear Xmax is due more to the price point of the speakers than a fundamental physical limitation of the design. After all, the longer the Xmax is, the harder it is to design and implement a driver that will perform well across that range--it's one of the reasons why speakers such as the JL Audio W6's and W7's are so stinkin' expensive. It takes a lot of engineering to do it right. 6x9s are not a lot better in that regard - the ONLY way to get proper bass is with a subwoofer. No, the only way to get proper SUBbass is with a SUBwoofer. There's no reason why you cannot get "proper" (whatever that is) bass (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Sub_bass) from a well-designed and properly installed 6x9 or even 6.5" driver. -dan Here's is what I just did for my 6.5 speakers... 1. Get a couple cardboard boxes 2. Get a lot of duct tape and scissors 3. Take off the door panel 4. Tape cardboard to the whole door. Make sure no holes are between the front of the speaker and the back of the speaker. Cardboard helps absorb the bass waves that come from behind and it also eliminates the rattling of the metal if you do it right. Plus, you get better insulation. No dynamat needed. Cardboard does the same thing as dynamat, just a lot cheaper. I got bass out of my 6.5" speakers that I would of thought of getting from the head unit amplifier. Trust me, it works! I just did it. A couple things to remember are you want to isolate all the little cracks around the speaker even if you can't do it with cardboard. Use a little foam or just several layers of tape would even help. And you want to get the high quality duct tape which is like 7 dollars at Walmart. |
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#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 11, 8:01 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
Cardboard helps absorb the bass waves that come from behind and it also eliminates the rattling of the metal if you do it right. Cardboard is not going to absorb any significant bass waves. What it *will* do is absorb the mid to high frequencies and dampen any spurrious resonances and vibrations. Plus, you get better insulation. Insulation against what? Electrical shock? Temperature changes? No dynamat needed. Cardboard does the same thing as dynamat, just a lot cheaper. I would hardly put a cardboard box and a roll of heavy, self-adhesive damping material in the same category. Among other things, Dynamat and the like will not turn to mush if it gets wet. A couple things to remember are you want to isolate all the little cracks around the speaker even if you can't do it with cardboard. Use a little foam or just several layers of tape would even help. And you want to get the high quality duct tape which is like 7 dollars at Walmart. I'm still having a hard time even believing that I've responded to this post, let alone believing that someone is actually advocating supplementing his door paenls with *cardboard*. Amazing. A *much* better alternative would be to use 1/4" (or even 1/8" if you can't fit the 1/4" behind the door) *hardboard* (or "medite"). A really good solution for sealing your door's interior is to take pieces of hardboard and cut them to fit in the holes in your door's metal, and use very small screws and silicone caulk to fasten these panels to the sheet metal (be sure to use some latex paint or other waterproofing on the "inside side" of the panels), and then cover the panels and sheet metal with dynamat. For those holes that won't fit a flat piece of anything, you'd pretty much have to resort to making these plugs out of a couple layers of fiberglass--which is much more involved and hazardous to your health. And if you want to do it *right*, you can use spray undercoating on the interior of the door to dampen the external sheet metal. Once you do this, you can get a pretty decently-sealed, "dead" doors...but they'll still be leaky around where the window slot at the top (unless you use silicone caulk and seal your windows shut. :-). -dan |
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#17
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
On Feb 11, 11:40 pm, "D.Kreft" wrote:
On Feb 11, 8:01 pm, "Mariachi" wrote: Cardboard helps absorb the bass waves that come from behind and it also eliminates the rattling of the metal if you do it right. Cardboard is not going to absorb any significant bass waves. What it *will* do is absorb the mid to high frequencies and dampen any spurrious resonances and vibrations. Plus, you get better insulation. Insulation against what? Electrical shock? Temperature changes? No dynamat needed. Cardboard does the same thing as dynamat, just a lot cheaper. I would hardly put a cardboard box and a roll of heavy, self-adhesive damping material in the same category. Among other things, Dynamat and the like will not turn to mush if it gets wet. A couple things to remember are you want to isolate all the little cracks around the speaker even if you can't do it with cardboard. Use a little foam or just several layers of tape would even help. And you want to get the high quality duct tape which is like 7 dollars at Walmart. I'm still having a hard time even believing that I've responded to this post, let alone believing that someone is actually advocating supplementing his door paenls with *cardboard*. Amazing. A *much* better alternative would be to use 1/4" (or even 1/8" if you can't fit the 1/4" behind the door) *hardboard* (or "medite"). A really good solution for sealing your door's interior is to take pieces of hardboard and cut them to fit in the holes in your door's metal, and use very small screws and silicone caulk to fasten these panels to the sheet metal (be sure to use some latex paint or other waterproofing on the "inside side" of the panels), and then cover the panels and sheet metal with dynamat. For those holes that won't fit a flat piece of anything, you'd pretty much have to resort to making these plugs out of a couple layers of fiberglass--which is much more involved and hazardous to your health. And if you want to do it *right*, you can use spray undercoating on the interior of the door to dampen the external sheet metal. Once you do this, you can get a pretty decently-sealed, "dead" doors...but they'll still be leaky around where the window slot at the top (unless you use silicone caulk and seal your windows shut. :-). -dan well you are probably right, but i don't think the cardboard is going to get that wet since it is pretty much isolated from the outside. Maybe I will try it your way in the future, but for now I've noticed a huge difference with cardboard. Whatever works is fine for me. Why spend a ton of money with proper equipment, when you can do it the cheap way and it still works. Right now, I can't even afford to buy dynomat let alone everything else you just mentioned. I'm going full- time to college with a part-time job to pay for the bills. Maybe you wouldn't put cardboard in your door, but I don't really give a crap what I put in my car. It's a hunk of crap. 96 rusted out cavalier. Plus the door panel would cover the cardboard mess and it would just look like as it did before. As I said, whatever works and is cheap... |
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#18
Posted to rec.audio.car
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help with amping.
D.Kreft wrote:
Ultimately though, your standard 6.5" speaker simply doesn't move a lot of air, especially not one with a tweeter or two stuck in the middle (because that design limits how far the cone can move, not because the tweeter "blocks" the sound), and you're just not going to get a lot of bass out of them. I don't know that this is necessarily a restricting factor. I think the fact that most coaxes don't have tremendous linear Xmax is due more to the price point of the speakers than a fundamental physical limitation of the design. After all, the longer the Xmax is, the harder it is to design and implement a driver that will perform well across that range--it's one of the reasons why speakers such as the JL Audio W6's and W7's are so stinkin' expensive. It takes a lot of engineering to do it right. Yes, good point. Of course, one of the main design factors for a coax/triax speaker is also that it fit behind what's usually a fairly low-profile grille. That generally means your tweeter or mid/tweeter assembly can't stick out too far, and that naturally limits the Xmax as well. There are actually some 6.5" woofers that produce relatively good bass; I even used to have a pair of 5.25" Kicker woofers that were quite effective for their size... but these aren't multi-way drivers and thus aren't limited by the presence of the tweeter supports. 6x9s are not a lot better in that regard - the ONLY way to get proper bass is with a subwoofer. No, the only way to get proper SUBbass is with a SUBwoofer. There's no reason why you cannot get "proper" (whatever that is) bass (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Sub_bass) from a well-designed and properly installed 6x9 or even 6.5" driver. Oh fine, if you wanna get all PICKY about it  |
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