Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker? I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm, two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked. I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are. It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc. would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?
TIA

iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm, two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm, two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm, two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of refurbishment. some
of the joints werent soldered I am able to do that, I admit though I am very
much deficient in the electronic department. The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm, the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that. The smaller speakers
have no marking I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside. I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect.There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers. The amp driving
them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be 400Watt according to the guy I
bought it off but on the rear plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be
more.
anyway it is quite loud.
maybe itll be best just to use it for the vocals till we can afford a new
rig. theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.
thanks for the advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm,
two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark
but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of refurbishment. some
of the joints werent soldered I am able to do that, I admit though I am very
much deficient in the electronic department. The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm, the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that. The smaller speakers
have no marking I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside. I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect.There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers. The amp driving
them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be 400Watt according to the guy I
bought it off but on the rear plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be
more.
anyway it is quite loud.
maybe itll be best just to use it for the vocals till we can afford a new
rig. theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.
thanks for the advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm,
two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark
but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of refurbishment. some
of the joints werent soldered I am able to do that, I admit though I am very
much deficient in the electronic department. The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm, the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that. The smaller speakers
have no marking I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside. I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect.There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers. The amp driving
them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be 400Watt according to the guy I
bought it off but on the rear plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be
more.
anyway it is quite loud.
maybe itll be best just to use it for the vocals till we can afford a new
rig. theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.
thanks for the advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

Is it possible to measure the impedance rating of a speaker?

Yes, if the resistance is 3.2 Ohms then it is a nominal 4 Ohm speaker,
if it is 6.4 Ohms it is a nominal 8 Ohm speaker.

I ask because
I have an old speaker setup which is made up of a single bass, 8 ohm,
two
mid range in series 8 ohm each, and two small 'tweeters' no rating mark
but
with a 450ohm, gold band resistor in series. These three setups are
paralleled and there is also a huge horn separate which is paralleled by
jack plug which is alos not marked.

Surely there are some cross-over components too?

I reckon the impedance must be between
3.4 and 3.8 ohms no matter what the rating of the unknowns are.

No. Total circuit matters, but generally nominal impedance will be
whatever the bass unit is.

It works
driven by a 400W amp unit so it must be ok, I would like to know though.
Also how would I fit a crossover so as to use the speaker units for
instrument amplification, eg drums bass etc.

It appears that you will benefit from skilled assistance, almost no
matter what then what you have is way insufficient for amplifiying
"drums bass etc.". Simple information such as just what speaker units
this is about is lacking. You should not jump too deeply into such a
project all on your own at the skill level you appear to be on.

would it have to be specialy
built or can something be bought off the shelf?

In the context of amplifying "drums bass etc." an off the shelf
electronic cross-over is the most cost efficient choice. High quality
high power passive crossover tend to contain a large amount of expensive
copper, an active electronic cross-over is likely to be cheaper. If it
isn't, then the quality of the passive could be in question. There is
however no way of knowing what - if any - applicability that comment may
have in this context of undefined loudspeaker units.

TIA

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair. I am not sure if all the actual
speakers are the same manufacturer, the two eminence ceratinly look newer
than the Gauss. I havent had time to strip the other cab yet but I will,
just to check the makes etc.
My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.
I can also ask around the music shops
the setup is like this with the large horns being plugged in to the main
cabs

+ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x
| | |
|45ohm res
big kappa Kappa 12A small horn
external | |
horn 15A Gauss small horn
| | |
|
-ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x

you are right, it is 45ohm resistor, green,blue,black, black is no nought
not one nought. I should have known that.
Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.
I know what you mean about earplugs, after 40 years in industry my ears dont
do too well at high frequencies anyway and I have worn earplugs most of my
life. Didnt start young enough though it is hard to see the damage being
done when your young.
once again thanks for your advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair. I am not sure if all the actual
speakers are the same manufacturer, the two eminence ceratinly look newer
than the Gauss. I havent had time to strip the other cab yet but I will,
just to check the makes etc.
My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.
I can also ask around the music shops
the setup is like this with the large horns being plugged in to the main
cabs

+ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x
| | |
|45ohm res
big kappa Kappa 12A small horn
external | |
horn 15A Gauss small horn
| | |
|
-ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x

you are right, it is 45ohm resistor, green,blue,black, black is no nought
not one nought. I should have known that.
Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.
I know what you mean about earplugs, after 40 years in industry my ears dont
do too well at high frequencies anyway and I have worn earplugs most of my
life. Didnt start young enough though it is hard to see the damage being
done when your young.
once again thanks for your advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair. I am not sure if all the actual
speakers are the same manufacturer, the two eminence ceratinly look newer
than the Gauss. I havent had time to strip the other cab yet but I will,
just to check the makes etc.
My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.
I can also ask around the music shops
the setup is like this with the large horns being plugged in to the main
cabs

+ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x
| | |
|45ohm res
big kappa Kappa 12A small horn
external | |
horn 15A Gauss small horn
| | |
|
-ve x----------x--------x-----------x-------------x

you are right, it is 45ohm resistor, green,blue,black, black is no nought
not one nought. I should have known that.
Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.
I know what you mean about earplugs, after 40 years in industry my ears dont
do too well at high frequencies anyway and I have worn earplugs most of my
life. Didnt start young enough though it is hard to see the damage being
done when your young.
once again thanks for your advice
"Peter Larsen" wrote in message
...
iz0nlee wrote:

I just had one of the cabinets to peices for a bit of
refurbishment. some of the joints werent soldered I am able
to do that, I admit though I am very much deficient in the
electronic department.

We are all ignorant about something. You say you have one of the
cabinets to pieces for renovation, this then means that you have two
speaker-sets like this, and not only one?

The mainspeakers are branded,
the bass is a Eminence 15A 8ohm,

the mid are an Eminence 12A 8ohm and a
Gauss Mdl 2841 with possibly a 0 on the end of that.

The Gauss MD 2841 is (was, brand is extinct) designed for "lead, rythm
guitar, keyboard, vocals" and was a darn costly unit, I don't know the
eminence speaker. EIA sensitivity is some 54 dB, my understanding is
that it translates to 104 dB at 1 watt & 1 meter and spec'ed
powerhandling is 150 watts RMS.

From your description the wiring is:


----------------
| 15" bass
-|--------------
| |
---------------
| 12"
| ------
| |
| ------
| | 12"
|----------

I. e. both 12" speakers wired in series and then paralled with the 15"
speaker. This means that they all function in the same tonal range, and
probably also since no cross-over components seem to be there that they
function as broadband loudspeakers. It is a somewhat primitive way of
doing it, but it may be reasonably well sounding.

The smaller speakers have no marking

With the fairly large - 470 Ohm (are you sure it wasn't 47 Ohm?) series
resistor the small speakers appear to be piezo horns that function above
4 kHz. IF they are what I think, then their treble is so poor that one
might be better off simply removing them.

I didnt dismantle the big horn but there is no marking on
the outside.

This is getting really interesting, you may have gotten something that
is better than it appears to be.

I bought the setup second hand as a vocal PA for my son's
band. It seems fine for that though obviously not perfect. There is
definitely no electronics inside that could be crossovers.

I would expect something cross-over to be inside the box with the
midrange horns.

The amp driving them is a Hill DX700 which was supposed to be
400Watt according to the guy I bought it off but on the rear
plate it says op power 760+760 so it may be more.

Probably dual 760 watts in 4 Ohm, "400 watt music power" pr. channel in
8 Ohm is not unlikely but perhaps somewhat optimistic.

anyway it is quite loud. maybe itll be best just to use it
for the vocals till we can afford a new rig.

Hmm ... well yes, erm ... you kinda like have components enough for a
three-way system and it could be enough for doing what you want if
properly configured as a threeway system with active electronic x-over
and one or two extra amps. (One extra in case of electronic 2-way, two
extra in case of electronic 3-way ....) Doing something like that would
require a 3 to 4 cubic feet closed cabinet for the pair of 12"
loudspeakers each side for use with a cross-over frequency of say 120
Hz. I think Behringer has a usable electronic cross-over, but I also
think that you need someone experienced to help you get it to work. IF
it is a really good midrange compression driver that is on the large
horn, then it may be worthwhile trying to start modding .... but please
do understand the sketchyness of these suggestions, a step by step plan
is something way different and all kinds of unknowns may influence the
validity of the suggestions above.

theyre only playing small pubs at the moment so probably dont need to
amp the instruments yet.

Keep it simple & look into musicians earplugs for them as well as for
you.

thanks for the advice

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair.

That's OK, it came across along the way.

My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.

Excellent idea.

I can also ask around the music shops

Generally speaking shops can only help so and so far without it somehow
costing ya, that also applies to the local pa rental shop, but the guys
who can really help may be, may be - I can't promise nutting from
faraway - be them.

the setup is like this ....

Outlook express mangled it by reflowing ... not that it matters much,
because there is only so and so much to do from afar.

Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.

The midrange horn should be resting on top of the bass bin, and assuming
that as well the 12" units and the 15" units are mounted conventionally
on the front of the cabinet the 12" gauss unit should be closest to the
midrange horn. It is unavoidably vague to say it like this, but without
an image of the actual stuff I doubt whether anyone can do better.

Just using it as it is could be a very good idea all things considered,
it has lasted well for the previous owner so it must be designed
reasonably wisely and it may be somewhat unsimple to really improve it.

Your mileage may vary greatly, suggestions made are based on asumptions
derived from your descriptions.


Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair.

That's OK, it came across along the way.

My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.

Excellent idea.

I can also ask around the music shops

Generally speaking shops can only help so and so far without it somehow
costing ya, that also applies to the local pa rental shop, but the guys
who can really help may be, may be - I can't promise nutting from
faraway - be them.

the setup is like this ....

Outlook express mangled it by reflowing ... not that it matters much,
because there is only so and so much to do from afar.

Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.

The midrange horn should be resting on top of the bass bin, and assuming
that as well the 12" units and the 15" units are mounted conventionally
on the front of the cabinet the 12" gauss unit should be closest to the
midrange horn. It is unavoidably vague to say it like this, but without
an image of the actual stuff I doubt whether anyone can do better.

Just using it as it is could be a very good idea all things considered,
it has lasted well for the previous owner so it must be designed
reasonably wisely and it may be somewhat unsimple to really improve it.

Your mileage may vary greatly, suggestions made are based on asumptions
derived from your descriptions.


Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******

iz0nlee wrote:

sorry I didnt mention the cabs are a pair.

That's OK, it came across along the way.

My son has recently started studying music technology so I have told him to
ask one of his lecturers for advice.

Excellent idea.

I can also ask around the music shops

Generally speaking shops can only help so and so far without it somehow
costing ya, that also applies to the local pa rental shop, but the guys
who can really help may be, may be - I can't promise nutting from
faraway - be them.

the setup is like this ....

Outlook express mangled it by reflowing ... not that it matters much,
because there is only so and so much to do from afar.

Cabinets are 451/2high x231/2 widex91/2 deep(internal). The bass is
compartmented at 24"from top, to 4" from the bottom with the back vented.
the horns are 261/2" across and 81/2 high, 11"deep at the sides semicircular
to 18" at front I sometimes wonder if it would make any difference musically
if the whole thing was the other way up. It would be more symetrical and it
looks top heavy now.

The midrange horn should be resting on top of the bass bin, and assuming
that as well the 12" units and the 15" units are mounted conventionally
on the front of the cabinet the 12" gauss unit should be closest to the
midrange horn. It is unavoidably vague to say it like this, but without
an image of the actual stuff I doubt whether anyone can do better.

Just using it as it is could be a very good idea all things considered,
it has lasted well for the previous owner so it must be designed
reasonably wisely and it may be somewhat unsimple to really improve it.

Your mileage may vary greatly, suggestions made are based on asumptions
derived from your descriptions.


Kind regards

Peter Larsen

--
************************************************** *************
* \\\\\\\ Quality Ascii handcrafted by Peter Larsen /////// *
* \\\\\\\ My site is at: http://www.muyiovatki.dk /////// *
************************************************** *******