1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front
speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms'
(http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts
rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj).

2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both
the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp?

2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one
for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a
strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?)

I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is
definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components
will have to wait...

Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough
to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps,
although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps.

Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget...

3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock
(bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u). I don't
need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to
the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250.

If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do
I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask
that one...

4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better
choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the
frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs
250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity)

Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point?


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1. ok, so no worries about any "power ratio"

2. the amp posted in question 2, can be had for about 120, shipped.
that is definitly in my price range, and any (2.b) MTX amp (new) with
similar ratings is 2x as much (out of my budget). Also, the profile
has a 3 year warranty.

3. www.qandnotu.org

4. Sounds like I will stick with the infinity sub.

Thanks for the replies


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Here is my Opinions

1) I don't think there is a ratio for sub to front, it's more a personal
preference. But Subs Require a lot more power because the speakers are
bigger.
2) that amp can power both fronts and subs, but I think you you should go
with the MTX amp over the Profile. MTX is a better constructed amp and you
less likey to have noise problems. your system is only as good as you
weakest link and that profile would be the weakest link.
2b) The MTX is powerfull enough to run the whole system, and would be the
best if there are space concerns. I think it is better to have a separate
amp just for subs.
Adding any kind of amp puts a strain on the electrical system and I
recommend upgrading the altinator. The Altinator on most new vehicles is
rated so close to what the vehicle uses that adding any other electrical
device puts a strain on it. So what happens is the Altinator works full out
all the time trying to keep the battery charged, that in can burn out. This
can sometimes take 6 months to a year to happen, sometimes you may not have
any problems. Upgrading the altinator will also help the bass response since
it will be able to keep up with the current demands of a sub amp.
3) The more power the more bass you can get. If the bass is to much, there
is a gain control on the amps tu turn tham up or down.
4) the more sensitive the sub the less power it takes to drive it, usually
lower powered subs are more sensitive than higher powered subs

I do not kow what head unit your using, but if it a high power unit
My recommendation for you is: 1st Get a 200-300 watt 2 channel amp to run
the Sub and run the Fronts off the head unit power
2nd: then when you budget lets you get another 2 channel amp for the fronts.
if you can afford it get a bigger amp that you can put on the subs and put
the smaller amp on the fronts

--
The Clown Prince of Car Stereo


"jiffy" wrote in message
news:1110470398.ec1bf8694457b679b0c5185ec267d1c0@t eranews...

1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front
speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms'
(http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts
rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj).

2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both
the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp?

2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one
for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a
strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?)

I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is
definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components
will have to wait...

Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough
to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps,
although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps.

Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget...

3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock
(bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u). I don't
need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to
the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250.

If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do
I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask
that one...

4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better
choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the
frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs
250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity)

Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point?


--
jiffy
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http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=213184
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"jiffy" wrote in message
news:1110470398.ec1bf8694457b679b0c5185ec267d1c0@t eranews...

1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front
speakers?
I agree with joe, it is a matter of personal opinion. I actually have a
more powerful amp driving my front speakers than the amp driving my sub. My
front speaker amp is a Soundstream Reference 700 (125 watts x 2) and my sub
amp is a Rockford Punch 225.2 (112.5 x 2 watts). Of course, my sub amp is
bridged (450 watts) and my soundstream is not. I do this because my MB
Quart front speakers are REALLY inefficient and need tons of power to sound
good.

So basically, there's no hard and fast rule.

MOSFET

1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front
speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms'
(http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts
rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj).

As the others have said, there's no rule governing this. The ratio of power
outputs of the amplifiers won't determine the relative loudness of each -
that can always be adjusted with the gain controls or fader. But it will
determine just how loud you can go before distorting.

2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both
the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp?

Yes, it's capable.


2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one
for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a
strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?)

No, you could always just get a bigger/better amp than that one. I disagree
with what the other poster said about having to replace your alternator.
You should be ok without a replacement, unless you drive a clown car or your
alt is on death's doorstep anyway.


I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is
definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components
will have to wait...

Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough
to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps,
although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps.

Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget...

Good amp, but I would never in a million years pay that kind of money for
it. You can buy used MTX amplifiers that size on ebay for about $100.

3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock
(bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u).

q and not who?

I don't
need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to
the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250.

If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do
I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask
that one...

You adjust the gain settings accordingly, or you use your fader as a
subwoofer level control - if your head unit has two pairs of RCA outputs.


4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better
choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the
frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs
250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity)

Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point?

Usually, power handling is the biggest selling point. Not only for the
obvious reasons, but if the rating is accurate, it also may say something
about the power compression of the driver - which, in short, is basically
the sensitivity at higher output levels (kinda sorta). See, the sensitivity
ratings you're looking at are measured at 1 watt. Well, great. But what
happens when you're really listening to the stereo? You're going well over
1 watt. Speaker coils have the property of increasing their impedance as
the coil gets hotter. Not just by a little bit either. So when the
impedance increases, the power delivered to the speaker decreases. This has
as large a bearing on the overall output as sensitivity would. Usually, but
not always, power compression should be less in a driver that can handle
more power.

But comparing specs between different manufacturers tends to be problematic
anyway. There's no set standard. And some manufacturers, like MTX, have a
tendency of intentionally underrating their equipment. If I were you, I'd
base your choice on reviews written by people who actually own the
equipment, and not those who just did a quick comparison of the spec sheets.
And if all else fails, just go with the cheaper one.

2. the amp posted in question 2, can be had for about 120, shipped.
that is definitly in my price range, and any (2.b) MTX amp (new) with
similar ratings is 2x as much (out of my budget). Also, the profile
has a 3 year warranty.

It's probably worth adding that an MTX rated at about half of what the
Profile is rated at will be able to provide at least as much power as the
Profile amp. That's based on my own experience of owning several MTX amps
and one Profile amp, as well as testimonies over the years in here from
other owners. That's not to say that Profile amplifiers are bad, or that
you should spend a ton more just for the MTX, but rather to allow for a
better comparison between the two.

In fact, I used to have an MTX Blue Thunder 752 which was rated at only
37.5wrms x 2, but the "birth certificate" that came with it actually
stated that it was tested to deliver 75 watts per channel, and when I
benched it I got closer to 100 watts into a 4 ohm load prior to the onset
of clipping. I don't remember the exact number...