I am going to archive some LPs. After the sound tracks has been captured on
the PC, what tools can I use to clean up the sound? Someone suggested Groove
Mechanic from Coyoto. Ease of use and good quality are important. TIA.

The Waves Restoation pack is great for this. Used it to some practically
unlistenable masters from 1920s. The Waves plugs were good enough to allow
us to hear the original parts through all the scratches and noise.

I heartily recommend them.

--
J
Freelance Engineer Producer
(Delete "no.spam" from my e-mail address to reply direct)


"leo" wrote in message
k.net...
I am going to archive some LPs. After the sound tracks has been captured
on
the PC, what tools can I use to clean up the sound? Someone suggested
Groove
Mechanic from Coyoto. Ease of use and good quality are important. TIA.

The Waves Restoation pack is great for this. Used it to some practically
unlistenable masters from 1920s. The Waves plugs were good enough to allow
us to hear the original parts through all the scratches and noise.

I heartily recommend them.

--
J
Freelance Engineer Producer
(Delete "no.spam" from my e-mail address to reply direct)


"leo" wrote in message
k.net...
I am going to archive some LPs. After the sound tracks has been captured
on
the PC, what tools can I use to clean up the sound? Someone suggested
Groove
Mechanic from Coyoto. Ease of use and good quality are important. TIA.

What's the best way to record a vinyl LP to digital?

First, I find the best thing to do is clean the record thoroughly with a
vacuum-record cleaner, preferably something like one of the VPI's
(vpiindustries.com) or Nitty-Gritty's. They use an alcohol-based solution
that you apply to the record surface, let it sit for a few seconds, then you
vacuum the whole mess off, which removes both the liquid residue and all the
gunk that was sitting in the grooves.

Once the record is thoroughly clean, you need a top-notch turntable, tonearm,
and phono cartridge. Decent turntables in the $200-$1000 price range are
available from companies like Audio Advisor (audioadvisor.com), Needle Doctor
(needledoctor.com), and Esoteric Sound (esotericsound.com), as well as your
local audio specialist dealer. Good turntable companies include Linn, Music
Hall, SME, Sumiko, Thorens, VPI, and many others; the popular Technics
turntables generally used by hip-hop DJs aren't necessarily known for their
fidelity, but they are well-made and will hold up to abuse over time.

The audio signal coming out of the turntable is at a low level, and it needs
to be preamplified up to a the normal -10dB line level expected by most sound
cards (or +4dB for balanced pro gear). Phono preamps are available from
companies like Adcom, Audio Research, Creek, Krell, Parasound, and many
others; Radio Shack has a modest model in the $20 price range that will work
in a pinch. Most older receivers also have a phono input, but this feature is
vanishing from most new surround receivers. Whether you use a receiver or
preamp, you'll need to ground the signal (with a third wire) to minimize the
hum and buzz that often pops up in low-level phono audio signals. Keep all
audio cables as short as possible, and keep them well away from AC lines and
other sources of interference to minimize added noise or static.

Place the record on the turntable and then use a Zerostat to zap away any
residual static charges in the record, which will reduce the number of
static-crackles during playback. You can find the Zerostat for about $50
from Audio Advisor as well as eBay. Make sure the record is centered on the
turntable as much as possible, to avoid excessive "wow," and keep it as flat
as possible with a turntable weight (supplied with most audiophile 'tables).
I've had great success with the Nakamichi Dragon turntable, which is a unique
early-1980s design that automatically "centers" the record before playing it.

Once you're ready, fire up your recording software and transfer the record to
your hard drive. Keep the audio levels reasonable, but don't let the peaks go
any higher than about -5 dB on the digital scale. (Some conservative
recordists would recommend -10 dB.) I strongly recommend that you use no
processing or EQ during the initial transfer; do this later on with the
digital soundfile, once you're finished. That way, you can try different
techniques to solve different problems.

Clicks and pops can be eliminated manually, redrawing the waveform with the
"pencil" tool available in most sound editing software, or through add-on
"tick & pop reduction" or "hiss-reduction" plug-ins. Some of the plug-ins out
there are terrible; I've used the plug-ins available from Arboretum, NoNoise,
Sonic Foundry, and Waves, and I think the Waves and NoNoise stuff is the best
-- but is also the most expensive. The Waves "XCrackle" module is
particularly good at reducing constant low-level "crackling" noise. If you
have money to burn, Cedar's packages (cedar-audio.com) are unbeatable at
reducing or eliminating hiss, noise, hum, clicks, and just about any other
sound problem -- but at a high cost.

Make sure when (or if) you apply any processing to the sound that you do so
gently and carefully, and always compare what you do to the original sound so
that you know you're not going too far. Often, it's unwise to try to process
an entire record or even an entire song; try doing it to just the sections
that are noisiest. When it comes to hiss, don't try to remove all the noise,
lest you also wind up losing most of the ambience and subtle details as well.

And note that sometimes, you're better off trying to find a better copy of
the record. Starting off with the best possible material will often yield far
better results than spending dozens (or hundreds) of hours trying to fix a
totally-trashed LP.

--MFW

What's the best way to record a vinyl LP to digital?

First, I find the best thing to do is clean the record thoroughly with a
vacuum-record cleaner, preferably something like one of the VPI's
(vpiindustries.com) or Nitty-Gritty's. They use an alcohol-based solution
that you apply to the record surface, let it sit for a few seconds, then you
vacuum the whole mess off, which removes both the liquid residue and all the
gunk that was sitting in the grooves.

Once the record is thoroughly clean, you need a top-notch turntable, tonearm,
and phono cartridge. Decent turntables in the $200-$1000 price range are
available from companies like Audio Advisor (audioadvisor.com), Needle Doctor
(needledoctor.com), and Esoteric Sound (esotericsound.com), as well as your
local audio specialist dealer. Good turntable companies include Linn, Music
Hall, SME, Sumiko, Thorens, VPI, and many others; the popular Technics
turntables generally used by hip-hop DJs aren't necessarily known for their
fidelity, but they are well-made and will hold up to abuse over time.

The audio signal coming out of the turntable is at a low level, and it needs
to be preamplified up to a the normal -10dB line level expected by most sound
cards (or +4dB for balanced pro gear). Phono preamps are available from
companies like Adcom, Audio Research, Creek, Krell, Parasound, and many
others; Radio Shack has a modest model in the $20 price range that will work
in a pinch. Most older receivers also have a phono input, but this feature is
vanishing from most new surround receivers. Whether you use a receiver or
preamp, you'll need to ground the signal (with a third wire) to minimize the
hum and buzz that often pops up in low-level phono audio signals. Keep all
audio cables as short as possible, and keep them well away from AC lines and
other sources of interference to minimize added noise or static.

Place the record on the turntable and then use a Zerostat to zap away any
residual static charges in the record, which will reduce the number of
static-crackles during playback. You can find the Zerostat for about $50
from Audio Advisor as well as eBay. Make sure the record is centered on the
turntable as much as possible, to avoid excessive "wow," and keep it as flat
as possible with a turntable weight (supplied with most audiophile 'tables).
I've had great success with the Nakamichi Dragon turntable, which is a unique
early-1980s design that automatically "centers" the record before playing it.

Once you're ready, fire up your recording software and transfer the record to
your hard drive. Keep the audio levels reasonable, but don't let the peaks go
any higher than about -5 dB on the digital scale. (Some conservative
recordists would recommend -10 dB.) I strongly recommend that you use no
processing or EQ during the initial transfer; do this later on with the
digital soundfile, once you're finished. That way, you can try different
techniques to solve different problems.

Clicks and pops can be eliminated manually, redrawing the waveform with the
"pencil" tool available in most sound editing software, or through add-on
"tick & pop reduction" or "hiss-reduction" plug-ins. Some of the plug-ins out
there are terrible; I've used the plug-ins available from Arboretum, NoNoise,
Sonic Foundry, and Waves, and I think the Waves and NoNoise stuff is the best
-- but is also the most expensive. The Waves "XCrackle" module is
particularly good at reducing constant low-level "crackling" noise. If you
have money to burn, Cedar's packages (cedar-audio.com) are unbeatable at
reducing or eliminating hiss, noise, hum, clicks, and just about any other
sound problem -- but at a high cost.

Make sure when (or if) you apply any processing to the sound that you do so
gently and carefully, and always compare what you do to the original sound so
that you know you're not going too far. Often, it's unwise to try to process
an entire record or even an entire song; try doing it to just the sections
that are noisiest. When it comes to hiss, don't try to remove all the noise,
lest you also wind up losing most of the ambience and subtle details as well.

And note that sometimes, you're better off trying to find a better copy of
the record. Starting off with the best possible material will often yield far
better results than spending dozens (or hundreds) of hours trying to fix a
totally-trashed LP.

--MFW

What's the best way to record a vinyl LP to digital?

First, I find the best thing to do is clean the record thoroughly with a
vacuum-record cleaner, preferably something like one of the VPI's
(vpiindustries.com) or Nitty-Gritty's. They use an alcohol-based solution
that you apply to the record surface, let it sit for a few seconds, then you
vacuum the whole mess off, which removes both the liquid residue and all the
gunk that was sitting in the grooves.

Once the record is thoroughly clean, you need a top-notch turntable, tonearm,
and phono cartridge. Decent turntables in the $200-$1000 price range are
available from companies like Audio Advisor (audioadvisor.com), Needle Doctor
(needledoctor.com), and Esoteric Sound (esotericsound.com), as well as your
local audio specialist dealer. Good turntable companies include Linn, Music
Hall, SME, Sumiko, Thorens, VPI, and many others; the popular Technics
turntables generally used by hip-hop DJs aren't necessarily known for their
fidelity, but they are well-made and will hold up to abuse over time.

The audio signal coming out of the turntable is at a low level, and it needs
to be preamplified up to a the normal -10dB line level expected by most sound
cards (or +4dB for balanced pro gear). Phono preamps are available from
companies like Adcom, Audio Research, Creek, Krell, Parasound, and many
others; Radio Shack has a modest model in the $20 price range that will work
in a pinch. Most older receivers also have a phono input, but this feature is
vanishing from most new surround receivers. Whether you use a receiver or
preamp, you'll need to ground the signal (with a third wire) to minimize the
hum and buzz that often pops up in low-level phono audio signals. Keep all
audio cables as short as possible, and keep them well away from AC lines and
other sources of interference to minimize added noise or static.

Place the record on the turntable and then use a Zerostat to zap away any
residual static charges in the record, which will reduce the number of
static-crackles during playback. You can find the Zerostat for about $50
from Audio Advisor as well as eBay. Make sure the record is centered on the
turntable as much as possible, to avoid excessive "wow," and keep it as flat
as possible with a turntable weight (supplied with most audiophile 'tables).
I've had great success with the Nakamichi Dragon turntable, which is a unique
early-1980s design that automatically "centers" the record before playing it.

Once you're ready, fire up your recording software and transfer the record to
your hard drive. Keep the audio levels reasonable, but don't let the peaks go
any higher than about -5 dB on the digital scale. (Some conservative
recordists would recommend -10 dB.) I strongly recommend that you use no
processing or EQ during the initial transfer; do this later on with the
digital soundfile, once you're finished. That way, you can try different
techniques to solve different problems.

Clicks and pops can be eliminated manually, redrawing the waveform with the
"pencil" tool available in most sound editing software, or through add-on
"tick & pop reduction" or "hiss-reduction" plug-ins. Some of the plug-ins out
there are terrible; I've used the plug-ins available from Arboretum, NoNoise,
Sonic Foundry, and Waves, and I think the Waves and NoNoise stuff is the best
-- but is also the most expensive. The Waves "XCrackle" module is
particularly good at reducing constant low-level "crackling" noise. If you
have money to burn, Cedar's packages (cedar-audio.com) are unbeatable at
reducing or eliminating hiss, noise, hum, clicks, and just about any other
sound problem -- but at a high cost.

Make sure when (or if) you apply any processing to the sound that you do so
gently and carefully, and always compare what you do to the original sound so
that you know you're not going too far. Often, it's unwise to try to process
an entire record or even an entire song; try doing it to just the sections
that are noisiest. When it comes to hiss, don't try to remove all the noise,
lest you also wind up losing most of the ambience and subtle details as well.

And note that sometimes, you're better off trying to find a better copy of
the record. Starting off with the best possible material will often yield far
better results than spending dozens (or hundreds) of hours trying to fix a
totally-trashed LP.

--MFW

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.

(EE majors don't know any longer what the band around one end of a capacitor
means, either.)


James Boyk

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.

(EE majors don't know any longer what the band around one end of a capacitor
means, either.)


James Boyk

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.

(EE majors don't know any longer what the band around one end of a capacitor
means, either.)


James Boyk

On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 23:19:40 -0700, James Boyk
wrote:

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 23:19:40 -0700, James Boyk
wrote:

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 23:19:40 -0700, James Boyk
wrote:

Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

Wow, thanks! I've been looking for over a decade for a source. -jb

Clive Backham wrote:
It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

Wow, thanks! I've been looking for over a decade for a source. -jb

Clive Backham wrote:
It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

Wow, thanks! I've been looking for over a decade for a source. -jb

Clive Backham wrote:
It appears to still be available from Conrad Electronics
(www.conrad.com). I think they are based in Germany. A complete
Lencoclean L kit is listed at 30 Euros. Maybe you could contact them
and ask about spare brushes?

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

James Boyk wrote:
Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

There are some arguments about what wet cleaning really does. Wet cleaning
definitely is an advantage if you can't clean the records properly, because
it provides a way for the dirt on the surface to get out of the way of the
stylus more easily. But, it also reduces surface noise, and I am not sure
what the mechanism for that really is.

There are some folks who have claimed that playing wet causes microcracking
on the surface of the groove due to the more rapid cooling of the vinyl after
the stylus has passed. Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.

There was someone working on a JAES article about this, complete with
SEM micrographs of the surface damage, back in the eighties, and I talked
with him a lot and I'll be damned if I can remember his name or if the thing
ever made print.

Anyway, if your goal is to get one good last play out of a damaged disc,
wet playing can sometimes be a big deal, especially on acetates.

Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.

Most folks out there never did know anyway. Which is a shame.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

James Boyk wrote:
Or you can play the record wet, if you happen to have the LencoClean device.
This has had very bad press, but I've used it for decades and not found a
problem with it---and it clarifies the sound as well as cleaning it up. But I'm
on my last brush, and the thing isn't made any longer.

There are some arguments about what wet cleaning really does. Wet cleaning
definitely is an advantage if you can't clean the records properly, because
it provides a way for the dirt on the surface to get out of the way of the
stylus more easily. But, it also reduces surface noise, and I am not sure
what the mechanism for that really is.

There are some folks who have claimed that playing wet causes microcracking
on the surface of the groove due to the more rapid cooling of the vinyl after
the stylus has passed. Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.

There was someone working on a JAES article about this, complete with
SEM micrographs of the surface damage, back in the eighties, and I talked
with him a lot and I'll be damned if I can remember his name or if the thing
ever made print.

Anyway, if your goal is to get one good last play out of a damaged disc,
wet playing can sometimes be a big deal, especially on acetates.

Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.

Most folks out there never did know anyway. Which is a shame.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

James Boyk wrote:
Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

So, have it shipped to some r.a.p member in Europe and offer to trade for
some American product they need.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

James Boyk wrote:
Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

So, have it shipped to some r.a.p member in Europe and offer to trade for
some American product they need.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

James Boyk wrote:

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

I didn't see anything on their web site that says this - just that the
USA isn't specifically mentioned in their postage charges.

Cheers.

James.

James Boyk wrote:

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

I didn't see anything on their web site that says this - just that the
USA isn't specifically mentioned in their postage charges.

Cheers.

James.

Scott Dorsey wrote: ...There are some folks who have claimed that playing
wet causes microcracking on the surface of the groove due to the more rapid
cooling of the vinyl after
the stylus has passed. Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.


You have to continue UNLESS you clean it with a really thorough cleaner like
KMAL or Nitty-Gritty. All that's going on here is that when the "wet" dries, the
stuff that it had floated up from the bottom of the groove settles wherever it
finds itself on the groove wall; so yes, if you play a record dry after playing
it wet, it will sound filthy. But---I'm told; haven't done it myself---if you
clean it thoroughly, it can then be played dry again.



There was someone working on a JAES article about this, complete with
SEM micrographs of the surface damage, back in the eighties, and I talked
with him a lot and I'll be damned if I can remember his name or if the thing
ever made print.

George Alexandrovitch, at Stanton, I think. He had Very convincing
photo-micrographs showing vinyl shredded during wet playing. I saw a paper by
him; can't remember if it was published or not.

However, I have albums played dozens--probably hundreds--of times wet, and
there's been no cumulative problem that I'm aware of. And I do hear virtues in
it: not only removal of surface noise but a *greatly* increased clarity; ability
to follow individual voices in a chorus, for instance. I can't reconcile this
experience with his observations.



JB: Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the
record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.


SD: Most folks out there never did know anyway. Which is a shame.

Yes. Just as most people have never heard true stereo, most have never heard an
Lp played properly. (I don't mean group members, but people generally, including
music lovers & audiophiles.)


James Boyk

Scott Dorsey wrote: ...There are some folks who have claimed that playing
wet causes microcracking on the surface of the groove due to the more rapid
cooling of the vinyl after
the stylus has passed. Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.


You have to continue UNLESS you clean it with a really thorough cleaner like
KMAL or Nitty-Gritty. All that's going on here is that when the "wet" dries, the
stuff that it had floated up from the bottom of the groove settles wherever it
finds itself on the groove wall; so yes, if you play a record dry after playing
it wet, it will sound filthy. But---I'm told; haven't done it myself---if you
clean it thoroughly, it can then be played dry again.



There was someone working on a JAES article about this, complete with
SEM micrographs of the surface damage, back in the eighties, and I talked
with him a lot and I'll be damned if I can remember his name or if the thing
ever made print.

George Alexandrovitch, at Stanton, I think. He had Very convincing
photo-micrographs showing vinyl shredded during wet playing. I saw a paper by
him; can't remember if it was published or not.

However, I have albums played dozens--probably hundreds--of times wet, and
there's been no cumulative problem that I'm aware of. And I do hear virtues in
it: not only removal of surface noise but a *greatly* increased clarity; ability
to follow individual voices in a chorus, for instance. I can't reconcile this
experience with his observations.



JB: Clearly the right way to do the transfer, as MW implies, is to play the
record
the very best way possible, and only then worry about further cleanup. But the
art of good Lp playback seems almost lost already. How quickly it goes.


SD: Most folks out there never did know anyway. Which is a shame.

Yes. Just as most people have never heard true stereo, most have never heard an
Lp played properly. (I don't mean group members, but people generally, including
music lovers & audiophiles.)


James Boyk

Great post.

Great post.

James Boyk schrieb:

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

ERSATZBUERST.F.312088/5ER P.
Article No.: 312169 - I5
8,16 EUR

send me a mail, maybe we can arrange something

--
Martin D. Bartsch ARD-Studio Paris German TV Allemande
Arbeitsproben:
http://www.wdr.de/tv/weltweit/aktuell.phtml
Weltreisen-La Reunion ARD 5.10.03 13:15

James Boyk schrieb:

Whoops; they don't sell to USA or Canada. -jb

ERSATZBUERST.F.312088/5ER P.
Article No.: 312169 - I5
8,16 EUR

send me a mail, maybe we can arrange something

--
Martin D. Bartsch ARD-Studio Paris German TV Allemande
Arbeitsproben:
http://www.wdr.de/tv/weltweit/aktuell.phtml
Weltreisen-La Reunion ARD 5.10.03 13:15

(Scott Dorsey) schrieb:

Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.

But who will play the disk again when it is transfered to CD?
I stored the disks with the Lenco and the turntable for the case the
CD breaks.

--
Martin D. Bartsch ARD-Studio Paris German TV Allemande
Arbeitsproben:
http://www.wdr.de/tv/weltweit/aktuell.phtml
Weltreisen-La Reunion ARD 5.10.03 13:15

(Scott Dorsey) schrieb:

Therefore, wet playing increases the surface noise
for future plays and once you have played a record wet, you have to continue
playing it wet.

But who will play the disk again when it is transfered to CD?
I stored the disks with the Lenco and the turntable for the case the
CD breaks.

--
Martin D. Bartsch ARD-Studio Paris German TV Allemande
Arbeitsproben:
http://www.wdr.de/tv/weltweit/aktuell.phtml
Weltreisen-La Reunion ARD 5.10.03 13:15

In article ,
says...

Clicks and pops can be eliminated manually, redrawing the waveform with the
"pencil" tool available in most sound editing software, or through add-on
"tick & pop reduction" or "hiss-reduction" plug-ins. Some of the plug-ins out
there are terrible; I've used the plug-ins available from Arboretum, NoNoise,
Sonic Foundry, and Waves, and I think the Waves and NoNoise stuff is the best
-- but is also the most expensive. The Waves "XCrackle" module is
particularly good at reducing constant low-level "crackling" noise. If you
have money to burn, Cedar's packages (cedar-audio.com) are unbeatable at
reducing or eliminating hiss, noise, hum, clicks, and just about any other
sound problem -- but at a high cost.

Another interesting program (for Windows) is DC Live5-Forensics
(http://www.diamondcut.com/). These guys specialize in restoring 78 rpm
records (they started out archiving and restoring test-press recordings
that were made by the Edison company between the years of 1927 through 1929,
which was Edison's last few years in the record business), but their software
works on LPs too. The website is worth a visit.

In article ,
says...

Clicks and pops can be eliminated manually, redrawing the waveform with the
"pencil" tool available in most sound editing software, or through add-on
"tick & pop reduction" or "hiss-reduction" plug-ins. Some of the plug-ins out
there are terrible; I've used the plug-ins available from Arboretum, NoNoise,
Sonic Foundry, and Waves, and I think the Waves and NoNoise stuff is the best
-- but is also the most expensive. The Waves "XCrackle" module is
particularly good at reducing constant low-level "crackling" noise. If you
have money to burn, Cedar's packages (cedar-audio.com) are unbeatable at
reducing or eliminating hiss, noise, hum, clicks, and just about any other
sound problem -- but at a high cost.

Another interesting program (for Windows) is DC Live5-Forensics
(http://www.diamondcut.com/). These guys specialize in restoring 78 rpm
records (they started out archiving and restoring test-press recordings
that were made by the Edison company between the years of 1927 through 1929,
which was Edison's last few years in the record business), but their software
works on LPs too. The website is worth a visit.

On Tue, 7 Oct 2003 4:40:14 -0700, James Boyk wrote
(in message ):

Wow, thanks! I've been looking for over a decade for a source. -jb
--------------------------------snip--------------------------------


I've heard of the Lencoclean brush, but never actually seen one. Here's the
actual web page that has the info:

http://www1.int.conrad.com/scripts/w...RlPTM3MjM0MTgy
OTE=?~template=PCAT_AREA_S_BROWSE&glb_user_js=Y&sh op=A_B2C_IN&p_init_ipc=X&~co
okies=1

(I know that's a long address, but it should cut-and-paste correctly,
assuming the wraparound works OK.)

The thing is only ten bucks, so you have to wonder how effective it is. If
anybody tries one, let me know how it turns out.

--MFW

Marc Wielage wrote:

The thing is only ten bucks, so you have to wonder how effective it is. If
anybody tries one, let me know how it turns out.

Marshall Leach was absolutely fanatic about the things and loved them. If
anybody can find them in the US, let me know and I'll buy one to send him.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

(Scott Dorsey) schrieb:

If
anybody can find them in the US, let me know and I'll buy one to send him.

If you need it send mail.

--
Martin D. Bartsch
ARD-Studio Paris
German TV Allemande